The plastic surgery backlash has begun

It's all about lasers in Hollywood these days, and we're not talking light sabres. Traditional face-lifts are out, replaced by the new generation of no-knife, non-surgical face-lifts. According to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, 7.5 million minimally invasive procedures were performed in the US last year.

The are a host of different treatments available but it's the "Fraxel" laser treatment that is really causing a stir. A laser moves over the skin to stimulate collagen production, resulting in smoother, younger-looking skin in days. Thermal energy is propelled through microscopic sites deep in the dermis, leaving healthy surrounding tissue unaffected. And, unlike traditional ablative lasers, this does not remove the top layer of skin, which means that the recovery process is fast. Side effects are minimal and typically involve mild swelling and redness, which usually subsides within a few days.

According to the practitioners, the risks are non-existent. Dr Mario Luca Russo, whose Harley Street practice The Rejuvenation Clinic is a regular stop for celebrities, is the first surgeon to offer this treatment in the UK. "In theory, when you do an ablative treatment you may get an inflammatory response from going too deep on the tissue. But because Fraxel is treating 20 per cent at a time it is much safer, and will not cause any wounding or resultant scarring.

"This procedure is also revolutionary because it's able to treat everyone in the six skin type classifications, broadening its appeal to patients of darker skin types who were unable to have other treatments like intense pulsed light (IPL)."

In California, Dr Monica Bonakdar of The Beauty, Laser & Wellness Center is coping with a similar Fraxel frenzy. "My clients were mostly booking in for Botox and Restylane fillers, but now Fraxel is right up there on my 'most requested' menu," she says. She explains that Fraxel is particularly effective for easing sun-damaged skin, clearing pigmentation marks and revitalising faces showing the signs of age.

Dr Bonakdar applauds the use of non-invasive surgery, and says: "Resurfacing the skin 20 per cent each time is like fixing a digital picture piece by piece, and it's a more practical way to improve the skin than the older version, which was to blast the skin 100 per cent with a CO2 laser, followed by at least two weeks' recovery indoors with open wounds, looking like a burns victim and risking infection."

Elsewhere, the Beverly Hills-based Dr Sam Assassa has recently patented the "Cosmolift", which involves having sutures inserted where the uplift is needed, such as in the brow area, cheekbones, and neck. These are simply pulled and knotted, with the skin almost gathered up to provide the kind of uplift that you would get with fully invasive surgery. A similar version is called the Threadlift, and is practised by the likes of Dr Samantha Gammell at the Hadleigh Clinic on London's Wimpole Street. It is often called the "lunchtime face-lift", as it's non-invasive, with no anaesthesia needed.

Another Californian treatment is a skin-tightening heat treatment called Thermage. It transmits radio frequencies deep into the skin, heating its collagen network and causing it to tighten. This kickstarts the growth of new collagen over the next few months, resulting in tauter, firmer skin. The good news is that the treatment takes only half an hour, but it takes two to five months to see any major improvement and the effects are comparatively short-lived.

Not everyone sees these developments as progress, however. Abigail Saguy, a professor of sociology at UCLA, thinks that our growing obsession with surgery is unhealthy. "It's shocking that woman are so desperate not to age naturally," she says. "Is it really worth going to these extraordinary lengths just to feel acceptable?"

Surgery: the dos and don'ts

DO Shop around before having any medical procedures. See at least three cosmetic surgeons for consultations. Always check out a doctor's qualifications. Make sure that you are aware of the risks and possible side effects, and that you are getting the appropriate treatment for your problem.

DON'T Rush into a procedure if you are not totally sure about it. Claims about "lunchtime face-lifts" are often not quite that: you may have bruising or need to rest afterwards so be prepared.

Other options

SCULPTRA; FROM £400

Works on Sunken cheeks.

What is it? Crystallised polylactic acid.

The downside? Some swelling.

The specialist Dr Tracey Mountford, Cosmetic Skin Clinic (01753 665206).

ISOLAGEN; FROM £3,500

Works on Slowing the ageing process.

What is it? The patient's own cells are injected to reduce lines.

The downside It takes time.

The specialist Dr Laurence Kirwan (020-7935 8844).

MESOTHERAPY; FROM £200

Works on Fat-shrinking.

What is it? Medication and vitamins are injected into the skin.

The downside Slight swelling.

The specialist Dr Georges Roman (020-7323 2123).

RESTYLANE VITAL; FROM £300

Works on Improving elasticity.

What is it? A gel made from hyaluronic acid.

The downside Short-lasting.

The specialist Dr P Tympanidis (020-7462 0030).