First port of cool: Turkey's emerging and exclusive riviera

The Turkish coast has changed a lot over the past 10 years. What were once tiny, one-track towns are now large tourist traps full of cheap beer, pedalos and tourists sunning themselves. However, places remain that, while popular, have missed out on the more irksome aspects of mass tourism.

Take Kalkan, on the country's Mediterranean coast and a prime example of a town that has retained its dignity. Although it's no longer the small fishing village it once was, the cobbled streets that surround its small harbour have kept a certain charm and ambience.

"Kalkan has changed a lot in six years, and it has spread along the coast and into the mountains," says Bridget Kar-aaslan, of local agency Black Lion. "But the harbour and old town area have remained the same, and Kalkan has definitely kept its character."

Karaaslan says that while new-build properties have become more prevalent around the town's outskirts, the property to be found is still relatively low-key and high quality. Plus, the presence of original village houses has kept the flavour of the area intact.

You'll need to be prepared to pay, however. Prices in Kalkan are higher than most other Turkish coastal towns. "Decent two-bedroom apartments start at around £65,000 and go up to £95,000, while luxury duplexes sell for around £115,000 to £145,000," says Karaaslan. "Meanwhile, villas with four bedrooms and a private pool cost from around £240,000." Property in the old town is more costly with small original houses (needing renovation) priced from around £150,000 and larger or more habitable property going for around £500,000.

However, these prices don't put house hunters off – mainly because anyone who has chosen Kalkan as a destination is usually smitten. "People who ask for property in Kalkan really know they want to be there," says Katrina Walker, of agency Turkish Homes. "It's very pretty, very quaint and highly desirable."

Walker reckons that the only downside to Kalkan is that building restrictions aren't quite tight enough, compared to the neighbouring Kas peninsula, where property is also highly-priced but where there are stricter restrictions on the quantity and location of new buildings. Like Kalkan, the town of Kas is surrounded by mountains and has no natural beaches (Kalkan has a small artificial beach) but a new marina is likely to boost demand.

Prices in Kas are generally around 10 per cent higher than Kalkan but as Bridget Karaaslan says, properties tend mainly to be upmarket villas with reasonable plots of land. She adds that seafront properties are now almost impossible to find in the area and so are priced higher. That's not to say Kas has escaped high-rise blight: some tourist developments are in evidence in the resort, where apartments can cost as little as £30,000. But for something more glossy or spacious, you should expect to pay from £120,000 upwards.

However, it is the old properties that are top of the wish-list for most foreign buyers, and these are rare as well as pricey. Karaaslan has a few on her books: one "Greek-style" property in Kalkan that needs renovation is priced at £175,000, and the former village customs house, a pretty, three-bedroom property on the waterfront, is £129,000.

There is also a large ruined stone house, currently on the market at £550,000. It seems a lot, but Karaaslan points out that this particular property is on prime beachfront land.

But one of the advantages of Kalkan in particular is that it is situated at the base of a mountain, and therefore it's not hard to find properties with fabulous sea views.

Crucially, these small towns are still untouristed enough to have a life beyond sunbathing. "These aren't places where serious mass-market tourism has arrived," says Walker. "They're more café culture than bucket-and-spade."

Black Lion: 2blacklions.com, 0871 990 2077; Turkish Homes: www.turkish-homes.com, 0845 331 2644

Buyers' guide

* Mortgages with Turkish banks are becoming available for the first time to overseas and local buyers, with legislation coming into effect in January 2008.

* Several Turkish lenders have lined up with brokers in the UK to offer mortgages. The companies mentioned above are affiliated with brokers, or contact Connect Overseas (www.connectandprotect.co.uk ) or Conti Financial Services (www.mortgagesoverseas.com).

* Some claim that Turkish mortgages will increase sales and prices by opening the market to local and overseas buyers for whom cash used to be the only payment option. But interest rates are currently higher than most of Europe at around 7 per cent, and repayment terms are often over 15 years.

* Some brokers won't lend on off-plan purchases. Others will lend on off-plan but only if title deeds are supplied up front.