Upstairs is a well-spoken-of conservatory fish restaurant. Bar food is mostly fish with the odd sausage-and-mash, all between pounds 5 and pounds 8, and it's been in the hands of Taylor Walker for over a century. David Owen lives next door.
Worth the brief taxi ride if you're doing business in one of the more godforsaken wharves; they're goodnatured about calling another to take you back.
The Grapes, 76 Narrow St E14 (071-987 4396)
Tomorrow: Bill Bentley's, Beauchamp Place SW3