Del Buongustaio, 283 Putney Bridge Road, London SW1 (0181-789 9659)
Osteria-style local, taking its inspiration from Piedmont, but encompassing other areas such as Trentino and Liguria. Main courses from pounds 6.50. Set lunch, pounds 7.50, set dinner, pounds 19.50.
Zafferano, 15 Lowndes Street, London SW1 (0171-235 5800) Serious cooking with a convivial atmosphere. Many people's vote for the best in London. Set-price menus from pounds 15.50 for two courses, pounds 18.50 for three.
Assaggi, 39 Chepstow Place, London W2 (0171-792 5501) Situated, like a Thai restaurant, above a pub, The Chepstow, in Notting Hill Gate. Despite its pared- down, modern interior, stays true to its origins with Sardinian overtones. Main courses from pounds 11.