The ace of spuds
Word of mouth: Sybil Kapoor meets the top potato inspector, Peter Saunders
Saturday 29 May 1999
"People always think potatoes are tough plants, but they are actually very sensitive," says Saunders, strolling through greenhouses filled with sickly looking potato plants tended by young women in white coats. "They need to be constantly monitored from the moment they are planted to the time they are eaten." Such care demands a particular type of farmer and, once hooked, few ever return to less demanding crops like cereals. Every day he receives strange knobbly packages of worrisome potatoes, accompanied by a farmer's note asking for a quick diagnosis. Perhaps the seeds have a virus, or the main crop is showing signs of gangrene while in storage. Speed is essential to ensure that the crop is not lost.
The potato trials involve subjecting new varieties to as many nasty pests and diseases as possible. "We keep a big collection of diseases frozen in liquid nitrogen," he says, "so that we can assess the stamina of each new variety." He tips a plant out of its pot and carefully examines its roots. They are covered in tiny golden scabs, which are filled with the egg of every potato grower's nightmare - the golden potato cyst nematode. Once these drop off into the soil, the eggs will survive for 20 years and can devastate most varieties of potato.
Further trials are conducted outside, in NIAB's flat Cambridgeshire fields. "We choose different sites across England and Wales to see how different varieties respond to different soils and weather conditions," he explains, crouching to examine potato plant leaves for any sign of blight. Organic potatoes are proving especially challenging, because of their appetite for high levels of nitrogen and susceptibility to damage from aphids.
As most potatoes are marketed for a particular purpose, such as salads, baking or chipping, Saunders' department also examines the cooking qualities of each variety. It carries out blind tastings to assess a breed's particular texture and colour. Any tendency to disintegrate or blacken with cooking is noted, as is the final fry colour: pale golden is the in colour for chips and crisps at the moment.
"Although we trial about 150 new varieties a year, very few stay the course, despite the fact they are good," remarks Peter Saunders, rather sadly. But his troubles are soon forgotten once he has arrived home. A few new potatoes with a sprig of mint and a generous pat of butter, and he is a happy man once more
Life & Style blogs
City traders pay £200 for a quick hangover cure
Stephen Hawking: NHS is Britain's finest public service and must be preserved from commercial interests
The enemy within: People who hear voices in their heads are being encouraged to talk back
The Pirate Bay is back — but key staff have left to start a rival site
Eight-year-old girl Camilla Lisant suggests possible cancer treatment to her scientist father over the dinner table
Stephen Fry explains what he would say if he was 'confronted by God'
The open loathing between Barack Obama and Benjamin Netanyahu just got worse
9 reasons Greece's experiment with the radical left is doomed to failure
President Putin is a dangerous psychopath - reason is not going to work with him
Have we reached 'peak food'? Shortages loom as global production rates slow
Britain's widening poverty gap should be causing outrage at the start of the election campaign
- 1 Three-year-old boy shoots pregnant mother and father in New Mexico
- 2 Stephen Fry explains what he would say if he was 'confronted by God'
- 4 Gorillaz Phase 4: Cartoon supergroup is back as new artwork is unveiled
- 5 Benedict Cumberbatch's Alan Turing gay-rights campaign snubbed by Prince William and Kate Middleton
Negotiable: Tradewind Recruitment: PMLD Teacher A specialist primary school i...
£15000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Now our rapidly expanding and A...
£15000 - £20000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Are you passionate about great ...
£20000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This fast growing reinforcing s...