Stay up to date with notifications from The Independent

Notifications can be managed in browser preferences.

The best of British: The map: Peat-smoked salmon from North Uist, sea salt from Anglesey, Cornish pasties: Henrietta Green offers a guide to the top producers of our traditional foods

Henrietta Green
Saturday 14 November 1998 00:02 GMT
Comments

Smoked Salmon While most salmon-smokers make much of the oak (sometimes from whisky barrels) used for smoking, George Jackson of Mermaid Fish Supplies on North Uist relies on peat. His salmon is dried-cured and then cold-smoked over peat for as long as it takes, "depending on the wind and the humidity". The result is a well-textured fish with a distinctive smoke that has a particular warm vibrancy. Sliced, pounds 6 per 125g; sides, pounds 16.15 per lb (average 1.5lb to 3.5lb) including P&P. Mermaid Fish Supplies, Clachan, Lochmaddy, North Uist, Outer Hebrides H56 5FG (mail order 01876 580209)

Sea Salt Reviving a traditional craft, the Anglesey Sea Salt Company pumps pure sea water from a blue flag beach on the west coast of Anglesey and condenses it over a period of a week to make a bright white sea salt in crystal form. This and Maldon salt in Essex are the only sea salts made in Britain. Clear-tasting, crisply textured and acutely flavoured. pounds 3.50 for 250g including P&P. The Anglesey Sea Salt Company, Brynsiencyn, Isle of Anglesey LL61 6TQ (mail order 01248 430871)

Fruit condiments Made with such fruits as blackberry, loganberry, mulberry, raspberry and golden raspberry, mostly grown in its own kitchen garden, Womersley Hall's bitter-sweet fruit condiments can be used in sauces, soups, stews, salads or for deglazing a pan. The recipe follows the age-old tradition of soaking fruit in a non-brewed condiment for days, sieving it, boiling it with sugar, then sieving again and again for a limpid, clear and brightly flavoured nectar. From pounds 1.80 for 300ml bottle (carriage from pounds 12.50 for one to four dozen). Womersley Hall, Womersley, nr Doncaster, South Yorkshire DN6 9BH (mail order 01977 620294

Lincolnshire chine Old English for backbone, Lincolnshire chine is highly prized locally but sadly ignored throughout the rest of England. Butcher Eric Phipps prepares his in the same manner as his forefathers. The chine, butchered from a pig's complete forequarters, is first cured for a fortnight in a brine flavoured with sugar, black treacle, juniper berries and beer, then dry-cured in plain salt for a further week. It is then cut at right angles to the spine, stuffed with chopped parsley and finally baked for hours in a slow oven. Usually eaten cold and served with mustard and vinegar. Sliced, pounds 4.68 per lb; on the bone, pounds 3.95. FC Phipps, Osborne House, Mareham-Le-Fen, Boston, Lincolnshire PE22 7RW (mail order 01507 568235)

Cornish Pasties Apparently, anything can go into a Cornish pasty as long as it is wrapped in pastry. However, traditionalists expect beef - preferably skirt - potatoes, onions, what the Cornish call turnips but the rest of the country call swedes, salt and lashings of black pepper. Ann Muller of The Lizard Pasty Shop is adamant that a pasty should be generously filled, but never with too much meat. Bite into Ann's pasties and you will be overwhelmed by a rich, moist and spicy filling enclosed in a crisp buttery pastry. Small orders, pounds 1.40 each plus P&P. The Lizard Pasty Shop, Sunny Corner, The Lizard, Cornwall TR12 7PB (mail order 01326 290889)

Apples Brogdale Orchards house the National Fruit Collection. Among other treasures are 2,500 pairs of apple trees, each pair bearing a distinct variety. If you have ever searched in vain for Gloucester Cross, Cornish Gilliflower or Royal Norfolk Russet, then this is the place to go. Buy apples from the farm shop along with unfiltered juice. pounds 12.95 (including carriage) for a 5lb box of at least four varieties. Brogdale Orchards, Brogdale Road, Faversham, Kent ME13 8XZ (mail order 01795 535286)

Wild mushrooms For years now, Mrs Tee has picked mushrooms in the New Forest and sent her booty off to London's chefs. In season, she finds cepes, chicken o' the woods, wild Oyster mushrooms, pieds de moutons, chanterelles, blewetts, trompettes de mort and girolles. She organises group forays, and you can B&B with her and eat her mushrooms for dinner. Average price, pounds 5 per quarter-pound. Mrs Tee's Wild Mushrooms, Gorse Meadow, Sway Road, Lymington, Hampshire SO41 8LR (mail order 01590 673354)

Wine Imagine, an English wine winning the trophy for Best Bottle- Fermented Sparkling Wine World-wide. Thanks to Nyetimber Vineyard, it has happened. Independent wine writer Anthony Rose describes it as a fizz with "an aromatic toasty character and a firm backbone lending genuine elegance and finesse". The vineyard is American-owned; the expertise, grapes and equipment French; but the Sussex soil is very definitely English. Nyetimber 1992 Premier Cuvee, pounds 180 per case including carriage. Nyetimber Vineyard, Gay Street, West Chiltington, West Sussex RH20 2HH (mail order 01798 813989)

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in