Inverness Street is that market in Camden where the vegetables sit on stalls rather than loitering in crushed velvet and sunglasses. This bar has a frontage so narrow as to afford only two tables, but is positively Tardis-like inside.

Decorations are the usual panoply of orange and turquoise walls and the ceramicas and straw things you can buy in any roadside shop on the Iberian peninsula.

In these idyllic surroundings, delightfully sulky waitresses will slap down in front of you bottles of Dos Equis and San Miguel (everybody's favourite beers) and some of the best tapas on the market: here you can buy those strange, sour, vinegary pickled olives with tiny onions in.

Bar Gansa, Inverness St NW1 (071-267 8909).

(Photograph omitted)