In itself it is small and low, with an attractive vined patio garden at the back and slightly chilly staff. The pleasure, really, is the other customers: this watering hole is popular with lushes who will talk loudly about their connections while getting sozzled: I have twice seen expensively dressed women fall off bar stools in here. Go if you want a quick reminder that money won't make you happy. House plonk is pounds 2.10 and half a dozen oysters pounds 10.
Bill Bentley, 31 Beauchamp Place SW3
Tomorrow: The Scarsdale, Pembroke Sq W8