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Where shall we meet?: Bill Bentley SW3

Bill Bentley's is more generally known as an eaterie serving good but undemanding nosh. This is a shame, because its wine bar is a fount of much that interests anthropologists.

In itself it is small and low, with an attractive vined patio garden at the back and slightly chilly staff. The pleasure, really, is the other customers: this watering hole is popular with lushes who will talk loudly about their connections while getting sozzled: I have twice seen expensively dressed women fall off bar stools in here. Go if you want a quick reminder that money won't make you happy. House plonk is pounds 2.10 and half a dozen oysters pounds 10.

Bill Bentley, 31 Beauchamp Place SW3

(071-589 5080)

Tomorrow: The Scarsdale, Pembroke Sq W8

(Photograph omitted)