The 'only Afghan restaurant in Britain' serves food of such lightness, heat and corianderiness as to bring tears to the eyes of the most jaded camel drover.
You don't get to sit on the floor, but the place is decorated with hairy rugs, jewellery and things the Conrans would kill for. Bunk off work, eat four courses for pounds 9.95 and then go and walk it off in Regent's Park. Pasta will never be the same again.
Caravan Serai, 50 Paddington St W1 (071-935 1208).
Tomorrow: The Opera Terrace, Covent Garden WC2.
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