If you like your gloom on the eastern European side, this outpost of exile on the doorstep of South Kensing-ton Tube station is essential visiting. Daquise is a time capsule: lino floor, Formica tables, discs of stained glass in the

window and solitary old people being treated with great respect and kindness as they drink their milky coffee. Food has that Continental winter feel: black puddings, stuffed cabbage, high-flavoured sausages, all with ice-cream scoops of mashed potato. You can also get smashed here on flavoured vodkas and help yourself to cakes of a sort that you thought had disappeared forever. It sounds terrible and is, in fact, divine.

Daquise, 20 Thurloe St SW7 (071-584 4944).

Tomorrow: I Can't Believe it's Yoghurt, Leicester Sq W1.

(Photograph omitted)