window and solitary old people being treated with great respect and kindness as they drink their milky coffee. Food has that Continental winter feel: black puddings, stuffed cabbage, high-flavoured sausages, all with ice-cream scoops of mashed potato. You can also get smashed here on flavoured vodkas and help yourself to cakes of a sort that you thought had disappeared forever. It sounds terrible and is, in fact, divine.
Daquise, 20 Thurloe St SW7 (071-584 4944).
Tomorrow: I Can't Believe it's Yoghurt, Leicester Sq W1.
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