This ice-cream outlet opposite the end of Smith Street has, like the Abbey National beside it, changed irrevocably the face of swinging London; the chemist and Markham Arms which used to stand on those spots featured in just about any British film in which a man in loon pants drove around in an open-top car. Still, should you get an uncontrollable urge for Macadamia Nut Brittle with chocolate sauce any time between 10am and 11pm, you can sit on their tiny terrace and fill your face while watching the with-it youth pass by. And loon pants are back, of course.

Haagen-Dazs, King's Rd SW3 (071-823 9326)

Tomorrow: Cafe Portugal, South Lambeth Rd, SW8.

(Photograph omitted)