Trafalgar Square is one of those places, like Leicester Square, that Londoners often avoid, because it has so many tourists and messed-up people in it and because . . . well, just because. But here's the place, if you want, to get a glimpse - from the shelter of the porticoed steps of the National Gallery - of that picture postcard that out-of-towners think of as being this gorgeous scuzzy city. From this protected eyrie you can see it all: people snogging under the lions, people sniffing glue and falling in the fountains, coppers moving them on. And from 19 October you can go inside for a wallow in the glories of Michelangelo.

The National Gallery, Trafalgar Square WC2 (071-839 3321)

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