Olivo is an upmarket trattoria on the borders of Belgravia and Victoria, five minutes from the station. The mustard-and- turquoise walls, with geometric decorations, are attractive in the way that flats where people like Rosanna Arquette live in Eighties' screwball movies are.

The loos, also, are splendid, in the same design, with even the hand-drier buried under a layer of painted polyfilla.

Diners, although they constitute a good mix of age and trendiness, all have a certain moneyedness in common: a (really good) dinner here is about pounds 25; then again, it won't be a bowl of spag bol. Good for whacking down a bit of osso bucco before the boat train.

Olivo, 21 Eccleston St SW1 (071-730 2505)

Tomorrow: The Old Crown, New Oxford St WC2

(Photograph omitted)