The Chelsea Kitchen evokes all sorts of reactions. Parsimonious gourmands love it and people who hated school dinners come over all queasy at its tinned vegetables. Fixed tables that you have to share with some senile Chelsea bag lady (it'll be a Harrod's bag, of course), waitresses who carry the tragedy of middle Europe on their shoulders, plus the fact that you can eat so much you have trouble walking and still have change of a tenner add up to deep and lasting joy. Their minestrone soup is one of those secret, and chillingly effective, hangover cures that health freaks try to claim don't exist.

The Chelsea Kitchen, 98 King's Rd SW3 (071-589 1330)

Tomorrow: T E Dingwalls, Camden Lock NW1

(Photograph omitted)

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