Which hairdresser is a cut above the others?

Anthony Moscolo Director, Toni and Guy

Anthony Moscolo Director, Toni and Guy

Over the years Toni and Guy has gone through many phases as a hairdresser: from salons in suburbs, to session work in the West End [of London], to opening our academy, to the franchises we're running now.

The franchise arrangement means we can allow stylists to run their own businesses but at the same time, they are able to tap into the firm's energy, motivation and image.

Although all four of us brothers are still hairdressers, as the business has grown we have become more involved in the organisation and motivation side. There are new factors present in the industry too: technology has taken off and now everyone seems to have a range of products - Charles Worthington has done a great job with his line.

There are always going to be new people coming into the market and you have to keep and maintain standards. But you've also got to keep your head above the crowd. You've got to be creative and you've got to reinvest in the business constantly by advertising, promotions and generally being high-profile.

The three things which ultimately make a difference are training, image and business sense. Look at Nikki Clarke. He has done wonders for hairdressing. He has created a high-profile situation for himself and his salon and this has rubbed off on the profession.

Phillip Rogers Managing Director, Vidal Sassoon

The nature of our business has changed radically. It is now far more business-oriented with far shrewder players. The hairdressing industry has changed enormously too. Hairdressers have become media-friendly and high-profile. Instead of chefs on the TV and radio, we've now got hairdressers.

The consumer is more knowledgeable and more demanding which is good because we are kept on our toes. Products are not only a means of keeping a high profile but also can provide a high percentage of take. It is terrific for the industry that endorsed products have taken off and that the salons are showing an awareness of what the public wants.

Demand for hair colour has risen dramatically too. Jo Hansford is fantastic colourist. Generally, our profession is full of different types of businesses. The Regis group are the largest salon group in the world and are truly to be admired for what they've achieved.

Andrew Collinge Director, Andrew Collinge Hairdressing

The great thing about hairdressing is that there are no ground-rules; the sky is the limit. The challenge for us as an industry is to look for new opportunities.

We're moving into make-up and manicures in the salon. You have to constantly give that little bit extra to keep ahead of the pack. Vidal Sassoon was responsible for getting hairdressing to where it is now and we've all benefited from that. The next movement appears to be into franchising. The Mascolo brothers who run Toni and Guy are doing well with this. They are moving the industry forward and it's phenomenal to see the watch the growth of their family business.

British hairdressing is the best in world and the Brits are finding the courage to take on global markets. John Freida is huge in America. Product development is a major thing and I'm fortunate I am in a position to be able to be involved in that. But the salons must come first.

Trevor Sorbie Chairman, Trevor Sorbie

For me, the real buzz lies in the creative side of hairdressing rather than the business side because fashion is such a changeable animal. When I started all you could do with your takings was feed a family and drive a car. Now you can be a multimillionaire - that's just how far the industry has progressed. It is becoming far more sophisticated.

The winners in any field are the people who make a point of difference and the easiest way these days is via TV. The client may not necessarily understand the difference between a good and bad haircut on the telly but they will relate to you as a person. To be a successful top stylist today you have to be seen in the media.

Nikki Clarke, Charles Worthington and myself are all highly exposed on TV. Yes it might be shallow, but it is a new challenge and a new medium for us and still part of the same job. Media appearances also have a big effect on product sales so from a business standpoint it's important.

I'm glad the industry and hairdressing as a career has far more credibility. There are now salons with hundreds of shops following forays into franchising; the Mascolos who mastermind Toni and Guy have been particularly good.

Nikki Clarke and Charles Worthington have excelled with hair products side. I take my hat off to Charles for his marketing skills and packaging. He has put a new level of expertise into the designer haircare range.

Jennifer Cheyne Owner, Cheynes Management

The image of hairdressing has changed immensely. It is a multi-million pound industry, so hairdressers have had to learn how to run a business. The challenge is to convince the public that ours is a serious business.

There are very successful people in the profession and it is expanding - franchising has been a success. High-profile hairdressers are moving into products, some of which are very good.

The difficulty is that you have to maintain the standard of the product with extensive research and development. The market is reaching the stage where your product has to be really special or different to succeed.

One of the top names is Charles Worthington. His is a very good business. Not everybody manages to produce the image and the quality business, but they have.

Lesley Clarke

Managing Director, Southern Tropics Ltd, Kasmare, Nikki Clarke Products Limited

What we're seeing is the so-called celeb hairdresser. But they are inundating the market with their products and confusing the consumer. I see a natural paring down of the market because of the overcrowding. The difference between success and failure will lie in the quality of the product and how closely it matches the consumer's needs.

We're seeing a more professional hotelier approach to the running of salons. If your consumer is paying lots of money they will want comfortable surroundings with attentive staff. To stay ahead of the game you have to be different, you have to be brave and you have to be first.

The next big thing will be affiliated hair products - supplements and vitamins. My pet of the industry is Philip Kingsley, a trichologist who runs a hair treatment centre. His internal, holistic approach to how your hair looks is the way forward. I'm watching him very carefully.

Raymond Duke Managing Director, Regis Salons

Franchising is is the way businesses seem to be moving. Regis isn't doing it, but I imagine it's a good thing for the people selling the franchising businesses.

Hairdressing is becoming more like the restaurant and hotel business - we have to vary what we offer to satisfy price conscious people, busy people, people prepared to spend more time and money on themselves. We have to cover the needs of the marketplace. And you have to continually innovate and augment the basic product or you'd still be cutting hair on a rock in a cave.

You stay ahead by being open-minded and by looking at what other people are doing. Another development is the emergence of professional haircare brands. The turnover you can receive from products can be anything from 10 to 40 per cent.

The Mascolo brothers with Toni and Guy are taking what you'd call West End hairdressing to suburbs and are changing perceptions on pricing. There are many emerging hairdressers too - Charles Worthington and his business partner have taken hairdressing to a new angle with his salons, and open fireplaces. It is different and novel. Good luck to him.

Andrew Darby Head of Policy, Hairdressing And Beauty Industry Authority

The hairdressing industry has always relied on repeat business from satisfied clients to keep turning over. There is now the growing realisation within the industrythat technical standards are now pretty much constant between salons and so what makes the difference is client.

Products are changing parts of the industry but obviously the number of hairdressers able to set up a product line of their own is limited because the number of stars accommodated by media is limited.

Franchising is an area of growing interest; it gives stylists access to centralised high-quality equipment and good management support. In this way it is raising standards on a general level across the industry.

Most of the high-profile salons and stylists in the UK have been great ambassadors for the industry promoting the need for lifelong learning and Brits overseas.

Interviews by Sally Chatterton

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