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Designers get shirty as fashion-conscious buyers head for high street bargains

Andrew Buncombe
Thursday 05 February 1998 00:02 GMT
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If you're the sort of person who gets their clothes at the same place as the week's groceries, do not despair. As Andrew Buncombe reports, the quality, if not the cachet, is probably just as good.

It might not be enough to send Gianni Versace spinning in his grave, but a warning shot has been fired across the bows of designers of expensive clothes. A report in the Consumers Association magazine, Which?, says shirts from department stores and supermarkets can be a better option that selecting from the racks of exclusive designers. It tested white shirts of similar design from Tesco, Marks & Spencer, Debenhams, John Lewis and Next against the likes of the more fashionable Thomas Pink, Ralph Lauren and Yves St Laurent.

It tested the shirts on criteria including quality of finish, condition after 25 washes, ease of ironing and qualities such as shrinkage and seam strength. Perhaps unfairly, it didn't bother to test for their stylishness. "Some of the shirts that fared best ... even after 25 washes, came from high-street names rather than designer ones - and often at significantly lower prices," said Shauna Massey, the magazine's assistant editor. "It's reassuring to know you don't have to forgo quality if you're on a tight budget. The best result among pure cotton shirts was for John Lewis's Jonelle Care Free, costing pounds 30, scoring nine out of 10. The Marks & Spencer Easier to Iron, at pounds 21, got seven, as did Next's Easy Iron, priced at pounds 20. The Polo Ralph Lauren dress-shirt, costing pounds 60, scored seven, while the Thomas Pink Black Label standard collar, at pounds 50, scored six out of 10. In cotton-rich shirts, the Jonelle high-cotton content, costing pounds 14, scored nine; the Yves Saint Laurent button-down at pounds 30 scored seven.

But the world of high fashion did not take this challenge from the world of supermarket styles lying down. "Which? provides the consumer with a wonderful service and this is a useful survey," an Yves Saint Laurent spokesman said diplomatically. "But you have to remember our place in the fashion and image sectors of the clothing industry. Obviously quality, value and durability are important but this survey does not and cannot address the many reasons why someone would wish to buy one of our shirts. They are not taking into consideration how wearing a certain product makes somebody feel."

r The only difference between well-known grocery brands and a store's own-label equivalent may be the price, says Which?

It advises shoppers to think twice before filling their trolleys with often more expensive brand names.

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