Givenchy's enfant terrible offers sex and sensuality
Thursday 13 March 1997
After his first controversial couture show for the staid label was panned by the French newspapers in January, McQueen seems to have found a working formula that somehow makes his violent fashion sense compatible with his new job.
McQueen took Givenchy's staple ingredients and gave them his own salty, modern twist, creating a high-speed, sexually charged spectacle set in a disused horse market in Paris. He did it by fashioning leather - palomino, emerald or violet - into sexy bustier dresses punched full of holes, dyeing snakeskin lavender for floor-length coats and tailored jackets and, in an ultimate calculation, even put Kate Moss in a Bettina blouse of sheer black lace.
The result was often vulgar and aggressive - for the hard-hearted street- walker rather than the matronly society hostess. And while panther print fur minis, fishnet stockings and stiletto-heeled vinyl boots may not be what Givenchy's ladylike clients were hoping for, McQueen did not forget them.
That is why the show featured plenty of tame grey or pinstriped trouser suits, albeit with pointy power shoulders, close-to-the-body dresses reminiscent of the 1950s that were sensual but in good taste.
"It shows there are two sides of Alexander: superb tailoring and master creation on a women, and the other side is just crazy." said Joan Burstein, owner of Brown's in Britain. McQueen hits out at his critics in an interview in the current issue of Newsweek magazine, comparing them to Hitler.
"My clothes are out there on a limb and I get slagged for it." he said. "It's like Hitler and the Holocaust. He destroyed millions of people because he didn't understand. That's what a lot of people have done to me because they don't understand what I do."
Many fashion insiders shrugged the statement off as typical McQueen provocation. "There's a lot of violence in his collections, but a lot of energy too, and I think people are disturbed by it," said Nicole Fischelis of Saks Fifth Avenue. "I like what he does intellectually, but I think he likes to create controversy."
- 1 Howard Jacobson: Let's see the 'criticism' of Israel for what it really is
- 2 Gingers face extinction due to climate change, scientists warn
Game of Thrones author George RR Martin says 'f*** you' to fans who fear he will die before finishing Westeros saga
Jennifer Lawrence face palms Emma Watson at Christian Dior show in Paris
Gingers face extinction due to climate change, scientists warn
Pamplona Running of the Bulls 2014: Briton critically injured in San Fermin festival
Elephant 'cries' while being rescued after 50 years of abuse in India
Sustained immigration has not harmed Britons' employment, say government advisers
British jihadist calls for 'flag of Islam' over Downing Street and Buckingham Palace
Australia facing international condemnation after turning around Sri Lankans at sea
7/7 memorial defaced on anniversary of 2005 attacks with ‘Blair lied thousands died’ graffiti
Even when it brutalises one of its own teenage citizens, America is helpless against Israel
There’s a nasty smell in the political air – and it’s coming from the Tories
£45-£57k OTE £75k : Charter Selection: Major London International Fashion and ...
£45-£55k OTE £75k : Charter Selection: Major London International Fashion and ...
£36000 - £38000 per annum: Charter Selection: Charter Selection are working wi...
£25000 per annum: Charter Selection: Exciting sports company with a strong bra...