Old guard rallies to Versace's well-worn themes

TAMSIN BLANCHARD

Fashion Editor

Even Gianni Versace could not muster more than a handful of bona fide supermodels for his Milan show yesterday. Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Helena Christensen, Carla Bruni, Karen Mulder and Kate Moss are the last of the old guard.

Outside Versace's catwalk venue, teenagers gathered hoping for a model sighting. And they were duly rewarded as the new model army who have been dominating the catwalk this week filed by: the Canadian Michelle Hicks, the Scottish Harper's Bazaar covergirl Kirsty Hume and the Americans Trish Goff and Caroline Murphy.

Versace may have a new troupe of fresh faces to show his clothes, but he seems to have run out of ideas. Underwear as outerwear was an old theme revisited. This time the underslips were made of candy coloured satin with unsophisticated clashes of synthetic coloured violet or pistachio green lace. The military fixation continued with heavy combat pockets over the breasts of chiffon bodices. This Versace show was more Divine Brown than Liz Hurley.

Meanwhile Miuccia Prada, the designer who has taken a luxury label to cult status, needed only look around the audience at her show yesterday to know that she has her finger on the pulse.

The spring/summer granny jacket and skirt suits, and the loose, basket- weave print nylon trousers were everywhere. The only problem is, the clothes have such a distinctive trademark, they look instantly dated.

But this Prada hysteria is a sign of the label's far-reaching influence. It will not just be worn by those in the know, but also seen again in the shows of other designers from London to New York (where the label's younger line, Miu Miu will be at the end of the month).

After yesterday's collection for autumn/winter '96, the uninitiated could have been forgiven for wondering what all the fuss is about. For here were simple clothes that might not look so special if you did not know the label inside them.

The use of late Sixties, early Seventies bathroom tile prints in brown and orange has continued for next winter, as have the straight-legged trousers and matt nylon nurse dresses. The best of the collection came at the end with a series of delicate chiffon dresses for evening in pale greens and lilac with fine diamante beading.

PROMOTED VIDEO
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
News
ebooksAn evocation of the conflict through the eyes of those who lived through it
Independent
Travel Shop
the manor
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on city breaks Find out more
santorini
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on chic beach resorts Find out more
sardina foodie
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on country retreats Find out more
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

iJobs Job Widget
iJobs General

C# Developer (Genetic Algorithms, .NET 4.5, TDD, SQL, AI)

£40000 - £60000 per annum + Benefits + Bonus: Harrington Starr: C# Developer (...

C# Full Stack Developer (.NET 4.0, ASP.NET, MVC, Ajax, WCF,SQL)

£55000 - £65000 per annum + Benefits + Bonus: Harrington Starr: C# Full Stack ...

AIFMD Business Analyst / Consultant - Investment Management

£450 - £600 per day: Harrington Starr: AIFMD Business Analyst / Consultant - I...

Business Analyst Solvency II SME (Pillar 1, 2 & 3) Insurance

£450 - £600 per day: Harrington Starr: Business Analyst Solvency II SME (Pilla...

Day In a Page

Middle East crisis: We know all too much about the cruelty of Isis – but all too little about who they are

We know all too much about the cruelty of Isis – but all too little about who they are

Now Obama has seen the next US reporter to be threatened with beheading, will he blink, asks Robert Fisk
Ferguson: In the heartlands of America, a descent into madness

A descent into madness in America's heartlands

David Usborne arrived in Ferguson, Missouri to be greeted by a scene more redolent of Gaza and Afghanistan
BBC’s filming of raid at Sir Cliff’s home ‘may be result of corruption’

BBC faces corruption allegation over its Sir Cliff police raid coverage

Reporter’s relationship with police under scrutiny as DG is summoned by MPs to explain extensive live broadcast of swoop on singer’s home
Lauded therapist Harley Mille still in limbo as battle to stay in Britain drags on

Lauded therapist still in limbo as battle to stay in Britain drags on

Australian Harley Miller is as frustrated by court delays as she is with the idiosyncrasies of immigration law
Lewis Fry Richardson's weather forecasts changed the world. But could his predictions of war do the same?

Lewis Fry Richardson's weather forecasts changed the world...

But could his predictions of war do the same?
Kate Bush asks fans not to take photos at her London gigs: 'I want to have contact with the audience, not iPhones'

'I want to have contact with the audience, not iPhones'

Kate Bush asks fans not to take photos at her London gigs
Under-35s have rated gardening in their top five favourite leisure activities, but why?

Young at hort

Under-35s have rated gardening in their top five favourite leisure activities. But why are so many people are swapping sweaty clubs for leafy shrubs?
Tim Vine, winner of the Funniest Joke of the Fringe award: 'making a quip as funny as possible is an art'

Beyond a joke

Tim Vine, winner of the Funniest Joke of the Fringe award, has nigh-on 200 in his act. So how are they conceived?
The late Peter O'Toole shines in 'Katherine of Alexandria' despite illness

The late Peter O'Toole shines in 'Katherine of Alexandria' despite illness

Sadly though, the Lawrence of Arabia star is not around to lend his own critique
Wicken Fen in Cambridgeshire: The joy of camping in a wetland nature reserve and sleeping under the stars

A wild night out

Wicken Fen in Cambridgeshire offers a rare chance to camp in a wetland nature reserve
Comic Sans for Cancer exhibition: It’s the font that’s openly ridiculed for its jaunty style, but figures of fun have their fans

Comic Sans for Cancer exhibition

It’s the font that’s openly ridiculed for its jaunty style, but figures of fun have their fans
Besiktas vs Arsenal: Five things we learnt from the Champions League first-leg tie

Besiktas vs Arsenal

Five things we learnt from the Champions League first-leg tie
Rory McIlroy a smash hit on the US talk show circuit

Rory McIlroy a smash hit on the US talk show circuit

As the Northern Irishman prepares for the Barclays, he finds time to appear on TV in the States, where he’s now such a global superstar that he needs no introduction
Boy racer Max Verstappen stays relaxed over step up to Formula One

Boy racer Max Verstappen stays relaxed over step up to F1

The 16-year-old will become the sport’s youngest-ever driver when he makes his debut for Toro Rosso next season
Fear brings the enemies of Isis together at last

Fear brings the enemies of Isis together at last

But belated attempts to unite will be to no avail if the Sunni caliphate remains strong in Syria, says Patrick Cockburn