The long, hot summer, which put pigs off making bacon, and a rise in Japanese consumption have forced supermarkets to raise the price of pork and bacon up to 15 per cent, threatening the great British breakfast.
We eat a heroic quantity of bacon - 419,000 tonnes in 1995. But the shortage has been felt across Europe, threatening everything from choucroute to tagliatelle carbonara.
The Japanese began to run low on pork last September, and so they imported more from Denmark, who have more pigs than people.
But it compounded another problem in Britain. "We have a reduced breeding herd," said Sally Doyle, an analyst in the Meat and Livestock Commission. "There's been a big dip in the cycle so the number of slaughtered pigs available is actually declining and there is a great shortage on the market." In 1993 there were 800,000 pigs in Britain, but that it is now down to 765,000.
Low prices over the last few years forced many producers out of business and the problem was exacerbated by the hot summer, which put the pigs off sex.
Economists, noting the way that shifts in demand and supply failed to match, forcing prices up and down, coined the idea of the Hog Cycle. The point is that making bacon, as it were, takes time, so supply and demand get out of kilter.
Economists found an answer to the Hog Cycle problem using something which, confusingly, is called the Cobweb Theorem, which tells you when the prices are likely to even themselves out. But that is unlikely to be of much help to Britain's greasy spoon cafes.
Price rises of more than a third have already been borne by producers. A spokeswoman for Tesco, where prices have risen between 5 and 15 per cent, said: "Prices have risen across the industry... We've tried to hold our prices as low as possible."
Grenville Welsh, chief executive of the British Pig Association warned that things would not improve unless the government invested more heavily: "There is a lack of confidence in pigs at the moment," he said gloomily.Reuse content