Lagerfeld flags return to the real world
Friday 11 March 1994
This week in Paris - where we are watching the ready-to-wear collection for next winter - my ticket arrived as usual. So did some fragrant white tulips to brighten my hotel room. And the show? Last time it made me angry, and this time it made me smile.
The man who in January covered models' faces - he told me later he thought we would have fun guessing who was who as they teetered like blind mice down the catwalk - yesterday did a complete volte-face. Out came Naomi swathed in a Union Jack flag, Linda in the red-and-white maple leaf of Canada, Christy in a Salvadorean flag, etc. 'Look at this bevy of international beauties,' Karl seemed to be saying. 'Aren't they great, aren't they gorgeous?' He certainly wasn't saying 'look at the clothes' - at this point you could hardly see them.
Occasionally, when the eyes were not diverted by wellington boots, outsize fluffy muffs, huge furry cats and the new Chanel bag, which is chalky bright and comes with a tiny baby bag clipped on to it, one did get the chance to get a look at the clothing.
'I don't want to look like a gonk,' was one Chanel customer's reaction to the snow-bunny fluffy suits - Karl's new bulky version of Coco's traditional tailleur in candy pink and canary yellow fake fur. But perhaps she would like to look like a kitten, in a bubblegum-pink boucle jacket, thankfully stripped of those gobstopper gilt buttons which now look so tired and tied down the front with ribbons instead. This was cute and pretty, while much of the rest of the tailoring, when you could concentrate on it, was reserved and elegant. Not new, but Coco would have liked it.
The knock-off merchants in the Far East, who will have seen a contraband video of the show by the time you read this, will probably be tooling up their machines to imitate the knitwear. The shapes were traditional Chanel, but the colour combinations: tangerine trimmed with pistachio, emerald with sky blue, sunny yellow with apple, should prove commercial to the Jolie Madame market.
Lagerfeld's Chanel used to be fashion forward. It no longer is. We fashion hacks used to be sketching so fast we didn't have time to tap our feet to the disco beat. This time we did. Yesterday's was a hip and happy show, but new directions were few.
- 1 This restaurant has misunderstood the concept of 'cheese and biscuits'
- 2 Raif Badawi, the Saudi Arabian blogger sentenced to 1,000 lashes, may now face death penalty
- 3 Delhi bus rapist blames dead victim for attack because 'girls are responsible for rape'
- 4 PornHub turns masturbation into energy in bid to save the planet
- 5 Have sex with your iPad thanks to the new sex toy no-one asked for
Raif Badawi, the Saudi Arabian blogger sentenced to 1,000 lashes, may now face death penalty
Delhi bus rapist blames dead victim for attack because 'girls are responsible for rape'
PornHub turns masturbation into energy in bid to save the planet
Spiritual leader allegedly manipulated 400 men into removing testicles to be 'closer to God'
The 'sex selfie stick' lets you FaceTime the inside of a vagina
New theory could prove how life began and disprove God
This is what it's like to be dead, according to a guy who died for a bit
End of the licence fee: BBC to back radical overhaul of how it is funded
'Jihadi John': CAGE representative storms off Sky News accusing Kay Burley of Islamophobia
Ukip would cut billions from Scottish budget to fund English tax cuts
Nearly 100,000 of Britain's poorest children go hungry after parents' benefits are cut
£7 - £9 per hour: Recruitment Genius: Are you outgoing? Do you want to work in...
£45000 - £55000 per annum + 30 days holiday: Ashdown Group: Finance Manager - ...
£28000 - £30000 per annum: Ashdown Group: 3rd Line Support Engineer / Network ...
£26000 - £33000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Web Developer is required to ...