WHERE TO EAT WILD MUSHROOMS

Gwent: every weekend, dozens of kilos of the king of mushrooms - known variously as Boletus edulis, ceps, porcini - arrive at the kitchen door of the Walnut Tree Inn, Llandewi Skirrid, near Abergavenny (01873- 852797). Picked by local Poles, these are shipped on to London; the Walnut Tree is already full to brimming with mushrooms picked by the proprietors, Ann and Franco Taruschio. It will take many generations before English cooks match Mr Taruschio's handling of porcini. They are fired and served with bracing gremolata on grilled polenta, they go into melting lasagne with ham, oodles of rich bechamel, parmesan and wildly generous portions of truffles. They are made into the richest of soups. Open lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday. Approximately pounds 30 per person. Cash and cheques only.

Hampshire: Le Poussin, The Courtyard, Brookley Road, Brockenhurst (01590- 623063) is at the dainty end of the restaurant market. That said, Alexander Aitken, the chef and co-proprietor, has a healthy wild streak: he is a first-class forager for mushrooms. Given the weather - dry summer, wet autumn, short warm spell - there should be plenty of porcini showing up in his sauces for excellent home-made pasta. Approximately pounds 30-pounds 40. Open lunch Wednesday-Sunday, dinner Wednesday-Saturday. Access, Visa.

London: It is a Clerkenwell Italian who runs the Alba, 107 Whitecross Street, EC1 (0171-588 1798), but the feel is completely Piedmontese, down to the long, narrow dimensions of the main, original dining room. If a leather-clad biker walks stiffly into the place during dinner, carrying a large parcel, it will contain the white truffles shipped each year from Italy, and brought by courier from Heathrow. The porcini are picked in England, in highly secret locations. First-class charcuterie, great risottos, good green salads and perfect dolcettos, barolos and barbarescos to wash them down. Approximately pounds 30, with another pounds 10 per person if you nod to the man with the truffle grater. Open Monday-Friday lunch and dinner. Major credit cards and Switch.

Norfolk: East Anglia is carpeted with chanterelles and porcini, but sparsely populated with people who pick them. When a maverick does hit payload, the haul usually appears simultaneously at any restaurant of note on the north coast, from Rococo in King's Lynn to the Moorings in Wells, to Morston Hall, Morston (01263-741041). The folks at Morston supplement this with regular purchases from a supplier, so the likes of mixed wild mushrooms in puff pastry will likely figure in their four-course dinner menus. These are served Lakeland style, in a single organised sitting at 8pm sharp. Open Sunday lunch, dinner nightly. Lunch pounds 14, dinner pounds 23, with wine etc approximately pounds 30-pounds 35. It accepts all the major credit cards except Diner's.

PROMOTED VIDEO
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
News
ebooksAn unforgettable anthology of contemporary reportage
Life and Style
Taste the difference: Nell Frizzell tucks into a fry-up in Jesse's cafe in east London
food + drinkHow a bike accident left one woman living in a distorted world in which spices smell of old socks and muesli tastes like pork fat
Sport
Luke Shaw’s performance in the derby will be key to how his Manchester United side get on
footballIt's not a game to lose, writes Paul Scholes
Arts and Entertainment
Don’t send in the clowns: masks and make-up conceal true facial expressions, thwarting our instinct to read people’s minds through their faces, as seen in ‘It’
filmThis Halloween, we ask what makes Ouija boards, demon dolls, and evil clowns so frightening?
News
peopleFarage challenges 'liberally biased' comedians to 'call him a narcissist'
Arts and Entertainment
Liam and Zayn of One Direction play with a chimpanzee on the set of their new video for 'Steal My Girl'
music
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

iJobs Job Widget
iJobs General

Support Worker Vacancies

£60 - £65 per hour + plus free travel scheme: Randstad Education Cardiff: Yout...

Newly Qualified Teachers - Primary, Cardiff

£95 - £105 per day + plus free travel scheme: Randstad Education Cardiff: NEWL...

Teaching Assistant

£60 - £65 per day + plus free travel scheme: Randstad Education Cardiff: Teach...

Trainee Recruitment Consultant

£18000 - £30000 per annum + uncapped: SThree: Do you feel you sales role is li...

Day In a Page

The drugs revolution starts now as MPs agree its high time for change

The drugs revolution starts now as MPs agree its high time for change

Commons debate highlights growing cross-party consensus on softening UK drugs legislation, unchanged for 43 years
The camera is turned on tabloid editors in Richard Peppiatt's 'One Rogue Reporter'

Gotcha! The camera is turned on tabloid editors

Hugh Grant says Richard Peppiatt's 'One Rogue Reporter' documentary will highlight issues raised by Leveson
Fall of the Berlin Wall: It was thanks to Mikhail Gorbachev that this symbol of division fell

Fall of the Berlin Wall

It was thanks to Gorbachev that this symbol of division fell
Halloween 2014: What makes Ouija boards, demon dolls, and evil clowns so frightening?

What makes ouija boards and demon dolls scary?

Ouija boards, demon dolls, evil children and clowns are all classic tropes of horror, and this year’s Halloween releases feature them all. What makes them so frightening, decade after decade?
A safari in modern Britain: Rose Rouse reveals how her four-year tour of Harlesden taught her as much about the UK as it did about NW10

Rose Rouse's safari in modern Britain

Rouse decided to walk and talk with as many different people as possible in her neighbourhood of Harlesden and her experiences have been published in a new book
Welcome to my world of no smell and odd tastes: How a bike accident left one woman living with unwanted food mash-ups

'My world of no smell and odd tastes'

A head injury from a bicycle accident had the surprising effect of robbing Nell Frizzell of two of her senses

Matt Parker is proud of his square roots

The "stand-up mathematician" is using comedy nights to preach maths to big audiences
Paul Scholes column: Beating Manchester City is vital part of life at Manchester United. This is first major test for Luke Shaw, Angel Di Maria and Radamel Falcao – it’s not a game to lose

Paul Scholes column

Beating City is vital part of life at United. This is first major test for Shaw, Di Maria and Falcao – it’s not a game to lose
Frank Warren: Call me an old git, but I just can't see that there's a place for women’s boxing

Frank Warren column

Call me an old git, but I just can't see that there's a place for women’s boxing
Adrian Heath interview: Former Everton striker prepares his Orlando City side for the MLS - and having Kaka in the dressing room

Adrian Heath's American dream...

Former Everton striker prepares his Orlando City side for the MLS - and having Kaka in the dressing room
Simon Hart: Manchester City will rise again but they need to change their attitude

Manchester City will rise again but they need to change their attitude

Manuel Pellegrini’s side are too good to fail and derby allows them to start again, says Simon Hart
Isis in Syria: A general reveals the lack of communication with the US - and his country's awkward relationship with their allies-by-default

A Syrian general speaks

A senior officer of Bashar al-Assad’s regime talks to Robert Fisk about his army’s brutal struggle with Isis, in a dirty war whose challenges include widespread atrocities
‘A bit of a shock...’ Cambridge economist with Glasgow roots becomes Zambia’s acting President

‘A bit of a shock...’ Economist with Glasgow roots becomes Zambia’s acting President

Guy Scott's predecessor, Michael Sata, died in a London hospital this week after a lengthy illness
Fall of the Berlin Wall: History catches up with Erich Honecker - the East German leader who praised the Iron Curtain and claimed it prevented a Third World War

Fall of the Berlin Wall

History catches up with Erich Honecker - the East German leader who praised the Iron Curtain and claimed it prevented a Third World War
How to turn your mobile phone into easy money

Turn your mobile phone into easy money

There are 90 million unused mobiles in the UK, which would be worth £7bn if we cashed them in, says David Crookes