Wine Box

1990 Breaky Bottom MullerThurgau, Breaky Bottom Vineyard, East Sussex (0273 476427). Peter Hall's 1990 Seyval Blanc won a gold medal in the International Wine Challenge this year, but his Muller-Thurgau is remarkable for its sweet-pea fragrance and delightfully rich, fresh off-dry fruitiness. Sold at the vineyard for pounds 6, The Hermitage, Fortis Green Road, London, for pounds 6.95, Gare des Vins, Cooksbridge, East Sussex, for pounds 6.35.

1991 Throwley Vineyard Ortega, Faversham, Kent (0795 890276). This golden-hued oddball won a gold in the off-dry Germanic category. A very individual wine with a pronounced prickle of freshness offsetting the apricoty sweetness of fruit and faintly bitter bite on the finish. Available from Alan Smalley at the vineyard for pounds 58.75 a case, it will be stocked soon at Harcourt Fine Wines, Harcourt Street, London.

1990 Three Choirs Seyval Reichensteiner Dry, Three Choirs Vineyards, Gloucestershire. Tom Day's steely dry, almost Chablis-like blend of Reichensteiner and Seyval Blanc grapes won a gold medal in an international tasting organised in Bordeaux in June this year. Safeway sell it in local branches for pounds 4.55.

1991 Valley Vineyards Fume, Thames Valley Vineyards, near Twyford, Berkshire (0734 340176). John Worontschak, an Australian, uses fermentation in new oak barrels to give this soft, peachy wine a slightly smoky New World feel, although the assertive acidity betrays its cool-climate origins. Available at vineyard for pounds 8, and Bibendum, Regents Park Road, London, pounds 8.75.

1992 Safeway Stanlake, Thames Valley. Another John Worontschak wine, in an unoaked, crisp, dry grapefruity style, and sold nation-wide by Safeway for pounds 3.99.

1991 Denbies English Table Wine, Dorking, Surrey. Denbies' 250-acre wine estate with its Napa Valley-style visitor centre is the largest in England. This is one of their best wines, crisp and dry with that unmistakable English hedgerow fruit character. Sainsbury's, pounds 3.99.