Goods traded through Kashmir pass after 60 years

Rumbling trucks of fruit, honey and maize today made history as Kashmiris traded goods rather than gunfire when a new business route opened between India and Pakistan.

For the first time since partition, trucks crossed the Line of Control (LoC) that divides troubled Kashmir and marks the border between the two countries. Thirteen lorries bearing mainly apples set off from the Indian-administered part of Kashmir and 14 trucks also carrying fruit and other goods set off from the Pakistan-controlled Kashmir for India.

The distinction of being the first Pakistani driver went to Mazhar Hussain, who was carrying 1600kg of rice and spices destined for the Indian-administered town of Salamabad.

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As a police band strained the chords of the national anthem and schoolchildren sang patriotic songs, he could scarcely contain his emotion. "I'm very happy. I've never been to the other side. I had always dreamed of it," he said, setting off at noon. "We couldn't achieve anything through fighting, hopefully we can achieve peace through trade."

Three hours after Mr Hussain's truck set off, his counterpart, Taslim Arif, arrived on the Pakistan-administered side of the state, known as Azad (or Free) Kashmir. "I'm very happy. I cannot express my joy. It is as if I have waited a century for this moment," he said, equally joyous and ebullient . "It's good to be in our homeland, and to be among my brothers. If Kashmir stays with India, it will be very bad. We need to be free."

The opening of the new trade route follows a steady improvement in relations between India and Pakistan who have twice fought over Kashmir, divided in two following partition. Azad Kashmir is separate from Pakistan's main four provinces and enjoys a large degree of autonomy. It has its own legislature, president and prime minister.

In 2004, ceasefire talks between Indian and Pakistan agreed to increased trade and transport links. In 2005 a bus service for Kashmiris was started.

"It is a great day," said Sardar Attique Khan, the prime minister of Azad Kashmir, as the trucks set off along the old Srinagar to Muzaffarabad road, an ancient trade route now reduced to a dusty and rocky road that dizzyingly wraps itself around large green hills. "We have always demanded that both sides be allowed to interact with each other. We hope that this will allow for that to continue to happen."

The governor of Indian-administered Kashmir, N.N Vohra, echoed this opinion. "This historic day which will surely help the economy of both parts of Kashmir," he said, flagging off the convoy from Salamabad, five miles from the border.

The division between the two Kashmirs looks a great deal less menacing than it sounds. The actual border near the Pakistani-administered village of Chakothi is a white steel bridge that connects two large hills. Under it, the river Jhelum trickles slowly toward Muzzafarabad, the capital of Pakistan administered, twisting its way down a valley that divides hills of competing beauty and scale.

On the far side, Indian-administered Kashmir is one of the most heavily militarised zones in Asia, with thousands of troops deployed. Since 1989 an estimated 68,000 people have been killed as a multitude of militant groups have fought either for independence or a merger with Pakistan. This summer saw the largest pro-independence rallies for two decades as up to 100,000 people came to march against the Indian government.

The protests were sparked by a decision to provide land to build a guesthouse for Hindu pilgrims visiting a famous shrine. Though the Indian government backed down, Hindu hardliners subsequently enforced a blockade of the only road linking the Kashmir valley with the rest of India.