Motherhood brings maturity to Stella's slick designs - Europe - World - The Independent

Motherhood brings maturity to Stella's slick designs

The latest creation of Stella McCartney is a baby son named Miller, whose birth last Friday kept the designer away from her own autumn/winter 2005 fashion show in Paris yesterday.

She had apparently been working on the collection until hours before going into labour. Her dedication was worthwhile, because this show, at the Palais Brongniart, was a slick and elegant offering, full of wearable clothing, such as a tobacco-coloured single-breasted jacket and matching baggy trousers, or a hound's-tooth check jacket with bell-shaped sleeves and dramatic collar.

McCartney's swingy, A-line coats in black wool or salt-and-pepper tweed were worn with shiny black over-the-knee boots, made from synthetic materials. A staunch vegan, the designer insists on accessories made without leather or fur. To a pulsating ragga soundtrack, her taste for streetwear showed large hoods attached to balloon-shaped tweed dresses or short jackets.

This confident collection demonstrated how McCartney's signatures - in particular, sharply tailored jackets and camisole tops - have matured and become more convincing propositions.

McCartney's label is among several young brands owned by the Gucci Group that has a hip image but is not yet making a profit, and the conglomerate's chief executive Robert Polet has set a deadline of 2007 for those companies to get into the black.

McCartney's position on the fashion landscape has often seemed not to extend far beyond dressing her celebrity friends. At last Sunday's Academy Awards, her close friend Gwyneth Paltrow wore a stunning, putty-pink strapless gown by the designer. But McCartney appears to have her eye fixed on the bottom line, and yesterday's collection should appeal to a far wider audience.

Added to that, several commercial-looking bags on her catwalk - old-fashioned clip-frame purses in tweed or pale pink that dangled from chunky silver chains - were a hint at another way in which she might boost profits.

McCartney's full-volume tailoring hit on a major trend of the autumn/winter 2005 collections, as did the square shoulders of her jackets. Other trends which have emerged this week in Paris include high-collared Victoriana blouses, 1960s space age dresses with references to Courrèges and Pierre Cardin, Bloomsbury-style oversized floral prints and muted colours such as moss-green, mouse-grey and tobacco, along with black.

In the evening, sparkly lurex and shiny panne velvet or satin are key, with Jean-Paul Gaultier's silver-sequinned catsuit only for those who wish to be centre-stage.

News
John Travolta is a qualified airline captain and employed the pilot with his company, Alto
people'That was the lowest I’d ever felt'
Life and Style
healthIt isn’t greasy. It doesn’t smell. And moreover, it costs nothing
News
peopleThe report and photo dedicated to the actress’s decolletage has, unsurprisingly, provoked anger
Property
Home body: Badger stays safe indoors
property
PROMOTED VIDEO
News
ebooksAn unforgettable anthology of contemporary reportage
News
The programme sees four specialists creating what they believe are three perfect couples, based on scientific matchmaking. The couples will not meet until they walk down the aisle together
tvUK wedding show jilted
Arts and Entertainment
US pop diva Jennifer Lopez sang “Happy Birthday” to Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, president of Turkmenistan
musicCorporate gigs become key source of musicians' income
Arts and Entertainment
You've been framed: Henri Matisse's colourful cut-outs at Tate Modern
artWhat makes a smash-hit art show
Arts and Entertainment
While many films were released, few managed to match the success of James Bond blockbuster 'Skyfall'
filmsDaniel Craig believed to be donning skis as 007 for first time
Sport
Mikel Arteta pictured during Borussia Dortmund vs Arsenal
champions league
Voices
Yes supporters gather outside the Usher Hall, which is hosting a Night for Scotland in Edinburgh
voicesBen Judah: Is there a third option for England and Scotland that keeps everyone happy?
Arts and Entertainment
Pulp-fiction lover: Jarvis Cocker
booksJarvis Cocker on Richard Brautigan
Arts and Entertainment
Robin Thicke and Pharell Williams in the video of the song, which has been accused of justifying rape
music...and he had 'almost no part' in writing it
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

iJobs Job Widget
iJobs General

HR Manager - Kent - £45,000

£40000 - £45000 per annum: Ashdown Group: HR Manager / Training Manager (L&D /...

Senior QA Engineer - Agile, SCRUM

£35000 - £50000 per annum + benefits: Ashdown Group: Senior QA Engineer (Agil...

Marketing Executive - West Midlands - £28,000

£26000 - £28000 per annum: Ashdown Group: Digital Marketing Executive (SEO, PP...

Retail Business Analyst

£40000 - £50000 Per Annum: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd: Our retail client ...

Day In a Page

Mystery of the Ground Zero wedding photo

A shot in the dark

Mystery of the wedding photo from Ground Zero
His life, the universe and everything

His life, the universe and everything

New biography sheds light on comic genius of Douglas Adams
Save us from small screen superheroes

Save us from small screen superheroes

Shows like Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D are little more than marketing tools
Reach for the skies

Reach for the skies

From pools to football pitches, rooftop living is looking up
These are the 12 best hotel spas in the UK

12 best hotel spas in the UK

Some hotels go all out on facilities; others stand out for the sheer quality of treatments
These Iranian-controlled Shia militias used to specialise in killing American soldiers. Now they are fighting Isis, backed up by US airstrikes

Widespread fear of Isis is producing strange bedfellows

Iranian-controlled Shia militias that used to kill American soldiers are now fighting Isis, helped by US airstrikes
Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

Shoppers don't come to Topshop for the unique
How to make a Lego masterpiece

How to make a Lego masterpiece

Toy breaks out of the nursery and heads for the gallery
Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

Urbanites are cursed with an acronym pointing to Employed but No Disposable Income or Savings
Paisley’s decision to make peace with IRA enemies might remind the Arabs of Sadat

Ian Paisley’s decision to make peace with his IRA enemies

His Save Ulster from Sodomy campaign would surely have been supported by many a Sunni imam
'She was a singer, a superstar, an addict, but to me, her mother, she is simply Amy'

'She was a singer, a superstar, an addict, but to me, her mother, she is simply Amy'

Exclusive extract from Janis Winehouse's poignant new memoir
Is this the role to win Cumberbatch an Oscar?

Is this the role to win Cumberbatch an Oscar?

The Imitation Game, film review
England and Roy Hodgson take a joint step towards redemption in Basel

England and Hodgson take a joint step towards redemption

Welbeck double puts England on the road to Euro 2016
Relatives fight over Vivian Maier’s rare photos

Relatives fight over Vivian Maier’s rare photos

Pictures removed from public view as courts decide ownership
‘Fashion has to be fun. It’s a big business, not a cure for cancer’

‘Fashion has to be fun. It’s a big business, not a cure for cancer’

Donatella Versace at New York Fashion Week