The mask of Zorro? No, the couture of Gaultier
Friday 09 July 2004
Jean-Paul Gaultier was honoured with the closing slot at the haute-couture collections in Paris yesterday, a position held in the past by Yves Saint Laurent, considered to be the greatest couturier of the latter part of the 20th century.
YSL retired in January 2002 and Gaultier, according to the French fashion establishment in particular, is his natural heir.
Swashbuckling heroes, from D'Artagnan to Zorro, was the look Gaultier served up for his autumn/winter clients and it was refreshing to see women striding fiercely down the catwalk in seven-league boots crafted in everything from Chinese silk to Argyle knits, with feather-trimmed hats tilted jauntily to one side.
Gaultier only opened his couture atelier in 1997, accepting the challenge of taking this most archaic of craft forms into the 21st century. If anyone can, Gaultier can. His front row alone was testimony to the fact that couture can indeed be cool: Catherine Deneuve, Val Kilmer and Jane Birkin.
They won't be disappointed to see real clothes executed to couture standards - the perfect cashmere sweater, a full-length tartan dress, a trench coat morphed into the autumn/winter season's favourite cape and beautifully tailored black wool crêpe dresses.
Couture wouldn't be couture were it not for the requisite sequence of show-stopping eveningwear and Gaultier's is more modern than most. Among the stronger pieces this time were a hooded black sheath with intricate jet beading, and another in lipstick-pink organza worn with a hand-painted blanket coat billowing behind.
- 2 Friends 20th anniversary: Alison Jackson photographs reunited cast
- 3 Friends 20th anniversary: The highs and lows of the cast's careers since 2004
- 5 Free U2 album: How the most generous giveaway in music history turned into a PR disaster
Scottish independence: Despite defeat history may still point to Alex Salmond as the victor
Scottish independence referendum: Frankie Boyle reacts to nation's 'No' vote - 'To be fair, I've always hated Scotland'
Iranian blogger found guilty of insulting Prophet Mohammad on Facebook sentenced to death
Scottish referendum: Police struggle to control Unionist rally in Glasgow's George Square
Glasgow 'riots': 'Dishonest' social media users accused of fuelling panic with pictures from London riots
Daniele Watts: Django Unchained actress detained by Los Angeles police after being mistaken for a prostitute
Scottish independence referendum: A nation divided against itself
Scottish referendum results: Cross-party consensus collapses amid Tory-Labour spat on the 'English question'
Scottish independence: David Cameron is becoming the 'George Bush of Britain'
Russia freezes Ukraine into submission: Kiev admits country doesn't have enough fuel for winter
Scottish independence: The Queen breaks silence on referendum debate – as think tank warns of £14bn black hole if Scotland votes Yes
£75 - £90 per day + negotiable: Randstad Education Group: Are you a cover supe...
£30000 - £35000 per annum: Ashdown Group: Marketing Manager (CIM, B2B, MS Offi...
£22000 - £25000 per annum: Ashdown Group: A highly successful organisation wit...
£1 per day: Randstad Education Leeds: Job Purpose To work closely with the he...