Postcard from... Naples
Two days in Naples doesn't sound very long. But it was enough to get a taste of what this theatrical southern port is all about.
The weather was kind. Sunshine and 25C at the end of the October feels likes a gift for someone bracing himself for a winter in northern Italy.
A conman called Antonio, working outside Zara, is so charming he almost manages to sell me a parrot.
The seafront, closed to traffic, is especially lovely. And most of the rubbish seems to have gone. But the suspicion is that much of it has just been moved away from the centre.
On Wednesday the public prosecutor orders the arrest of three senior carabinieri officers in connection with the Camorra-rubbish scandal that has plagued the city's streets. Later I watch as two kids on a scooter snatch the bag being carried by a tourist from Rome. His neck was hurt when the bag was wrenched away. He doesn't want to borrow my mobile phone to call the police. "What's the point?" No one else seems very bothered.
The hotel is supposed to charge my credit card. Mysteriously, the machine is broken. Do I mind paying with cash (and receiving a handwritten receipt)?
On Thursday, time for lunch before getting the train to Milan. What can you get for €11 (£8.80) in London? Not a generous antipasto of cuttlefish, squid with ricotta, peas and herbs, followed by rigatoni with succulent chunks of artichoke in béchamel sauce and then a plate of aromatic friarielli. If the Gran Chic Café in Corso Garibaldi isn't in the guides, then it ought to be.
- 1 Caitlyn Jenner car crash: Driver who died in collision sued by surviving passengers for $18.5m
- 3 Watch the Supermoon live: How to see the brightest Moon of the year tonight
- 5 The 20 toughest job interview questions in the world
Caitlyn Jenner car crash: Driver who died in collision sued by surviving passengers for $18.5m
Pictures show young Palestinian girl biting Israeli soldier trying to detain boy during West Bank protests
Celebrity Big Brother 2015: Tila Tequila kicked off show after 'describing Hitler as a good man'
Watch the Supermoon live: How to see the brightest Moon of the year tonight
Hulk Hogan wants to be Donald Trump's running mate in the US Presidential election
Climate change: 2015 will be the hottest year on record 'by a mile', experts say
'Women only' train carriages: Jeremy Corbyn unveils radical move to tackle public harassment
Black holes are a passage to another universe, says Stephen Hawking
Iain Duncan Smith 'should resign over disability benefit death figures', says Jeremy Corbyn
Stock up on canned food for stock market crash, warns former Gordon Brown adviser
Labour leadership: Jeremy Corbyn voters most likely to believe 'world is controlled by a secretive elite'
£18000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Sales Executive or Senior Sal...
£40000 - £55000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an exciting opportunity...
£22000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This industry leading company produces h...
£20000 - £40000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This IT provider for the educat...