World Cup: House whine with a bite

From a brasserie in Bordeaux: Conrad Leach joins a Dugarry family celebration

THE plat du jour at Nulle Part Ailleurs in Bordeaux cost pounds 12m on Friday night, but then again it was served up by Zinedine Zidane and Christophe Dugarry. The French pair, Juventus playmaker and Marseilles striker respectively, teamed up two years ago to buy their brasserie - which translates as "Nowhere else" - at the same time as taking Bordeaux to the Uefa Cup final and putting themselves on the transfer map. And on Friday they teamed up again to put France on the way to victory against South Africa.

But even though the Bordeaux-born Dugarry, 25, has played for Milan and Barcelona in the last two seasons, life has probably been kinder on his older brother David because he gets to run the restaurant. And while Christophe has been hounded by injury and the French media, David simply looked after his friends, fed them canapes and provided water from suitably blue bottles, to support les bleus.

Yet before kick-off the mood chez Dugarry was still downbeat. Despite the presence of six kilted Scots dancing to the "Marseillaise" between tables and Zidane and his fellow former Bordeaux hero Bixente Lizarazu in the starting line-up, Christophe had not been picked to start. David said: "That was a catastrophe." Others might disagree. He had only scored twice for France before in 22 games and many have accused the French manager Aime Jacquet of bowing to pressure, from Zidane among others, to include him. The equivalent of Glenn Hoddle picking, say, an out-of-form Tottenham player for England.

Then with Stephane Guivarc'h's first-half injury came Dugarry's chance. From a Zidane pass, he fluffed an easy opening after only three minutes on the pitch which had the regulars in blue suits muttering into their steaks tartare and had his brother leaping to his defence - "The ball was too quick for him" - but nine minutes later Dugarry scored, which for David must have made the last two years of defending his brother all seem worthwhile.

Zidane's corner was met by Dugarry's header and sparked celebrations normally only witnessed at grands prix, not respectable restaurants. David demanded champagne and rasped: "That was extraordinaire. He has scored our first goal in this World Cup and he is my brother. And if he scores again it will be expensive for me but it could never be too expensive." Then Christophe helped set up the second and, indeed, no expense was spared as David and friends tried to disprove the theory that the French do not care about hosting this World Cup.

But after Thierry Henry wrapped up the 3-0 win and the Scots had packed up their kilts, a more sober David considered France and his brother's hopes. And he cast a doubt over whether he would be lifting one of his World Cup-shaped bottles of Zidane and Dugarry red wine on 12 July. "I do not know if Christophe will be a first choice now. But I do not think France will win the World Cup. There is still Brazil."

News
Denny Miller in 1959 remake of Tarzan, the Ape Man
people
Arts and Entertainment
Cheryl despairs during the arena auditions
tvX Factor review: Drama as Cheryl and Simon spar over girl band

News
Piers Morgan tells Scots they might not have to suffer living on the same island as him if they vote ‘No’ to Scottish Independence
news
News
i100Exclusive interview with the British analyst who helped expose Bashar al-Assad's use of Sarin gas
PROMOTED VIDEO
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Sport
Angel Di Maria celebrates his first goal for Manchester United against QPR
Football4-0 victory is team's first win under new manager Louis van Gaal
Arts and Entertainment
art
News
newsIn short, yes
Arts and Entertainment
Rob James-Collier, who plays under-butler Thomas Barrow, admitted to suffering sleepless nights over the Series 5 script
tv'Thomas comes right up to the abyss', says the actor
Arts and Entertainment
Calvin Harris claimed the top spot in this week's single charts
music
Sport
BoxingVideo: The incident happened in the very same ring as Tyson-Holyfield II 17 years ago
News
Groundskeeper Willie has backed Scottish independence in a new video
people
Arts and Entertainment
The Doctor poses the question of whether we are every truly alone in 'Listen'
tvReview: Possibly Steven Moffat's most terrifying episode to date
News
i100
Life and Style
Cara Delevigne at the TopShop Unique show during London Fashion Week
fashion
News
The life-sized tribute to Amy Winehouse was designed by Scott Eaton and was erected at the Stables Market in Camden
peopleBut quite what the singer would have made of her new statue...
Sport
England's Andy Sullivan poses with his trophy and an astronaut after winning a trip to space
sport
News
peopleThe actress has agreed to host the Met Gala Ball - but not until 2015
Caption competition
Caption competition
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Daily Quiz
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

Career Services
iJobs Job Widget
iJobs General

Teaching Assistant for KS1 & KS2 Huddersfield

£50 - £65 per day: Randstad Education Leeds: We are looking for flexible and i...

Teaching Assistant for KS1 & KS2 Huddersfield

£50 - £65 per annum: Randstad Education Leeds: We are looking for flexible and...

Primary Teaching Supply

£130 - £160 per day: Randstad Education Leeds: Qualified KS2 Supply Teacher r...

Year 1/2 Teacher

£130 - £160 per day: Randstad Education Leeds: Qualified KS1 Teacher required,...

Day In a Page

These Iranian-controlled Shia militias used to specialise in killing American soldiers. Now they are fighting Isis, backed up by US airstrikes

Widespread fear of Isis is producing strange bedfellows

Iranian-controlled Shia militias that used to kill American soldiers are now fighting Isis, helped by US airstrikes
Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

Shoppers don't come to Topshop for the unique
How to make a Lego masterpiece

How to make a Lego masterpiece

Toy breaks out of the nursery and heads for the gallery
Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

Urbanites are cursed with an acronym pointing to Employed but No Disposable Income or Savings
Paisley’s decision to make peace with IRA enemies might remind the Arabs of Sadat

Ian Paisley’s decision to make peace with his IRA enemies

His Save Ulster from Sodomy campaign would surely have been supported by many a Sunni imam
'She was a singer, a superstar, an addict, but to me, her mother, she is simply Amy'

'She was a singer, a superstar, an addict, but to me, her mother, she is simply Amy'

Exclusive extract from Janis Winehouse's poignant new memoir
Is this the role to win Cumberbatch an Oscar?

Is this the role to win Cumberbatch an Oscar?

The Imitation Game, film review
England and Roy Hodgson take a joint step towards redemption in Basel

England and Hodgson take a joint step towards redemption

Welbeck double puts England on the road to Euro 2016
Relatives fight over Vivian Maier’s rare photos

Relatives fight over Vivian Maier’s rare photos

Pictures removed from public view as courts decide ownership
‘Fashion has to be fun. It’s a big business, not a cure for cancer’

‘Fashion has to be fun. It’s a big business, not a cure for cancer’

Donatella Versace at New York Fashion Week
The fall of Rome? Cash-strapped Italy accused of selling its soul to the highest bidder

The fall of Rome?

Italy's fears that corporate-sponsored restoration projects will lead to the Disneyfication of its cultural heritage
Glasgow girl made good

Glasgow girl made good

Kelly Macdonald was a waitress when she made Trainspotting. Now she’s taking Manhattan
Sequins ahoy as Strictly Come Dancing takes to the floor once more

Sequins ahoy as Strictly takes to the floor once more

Judy Murray, Frankie Bridge and co paired with dance partners
Wearable trainers and other sporty looks

Wearable trainers and other sporty looks

Alexander Wang pumps it up at New York Fashion Week
The landscape of my imagination

The landscape of my imagination

Author Kate Mosse on the place that taught her to tell stories