Gok Wan: from catwalk to highstreet
Rob Cowen talks to celebrity stylist Gok Wan about how to cut it in the fashion industry
Tuesday, 23 September 2008
To get ahead in retail you should get as much experience as you can to understand what your customers want to buy and wear says Gok Wan
Every woman in Britain seems to want to meet you. Are stylists the new rock and roll stars?
Ha! When I was growing up I had no idea what a stylist was. Even when I started to work in fashion I had no idea of what I did for a living. It’s funny the way things are now. There are more of us in the media, I guess, and it’s probably because we have a huge fascination in the UK with how we look, more so than ever before.
Has fashion retail changed over the last few years?
Absolutely. Fashion has be come more accessible. The process from catwalk to high street takes about nine weeks now, so we’re much more trend-savvy and we have so many different styles going on. Whether you want the indie look or the emo look, there is so much choice and a bigger market. That’s why there is a need for more people to work in the industry.
You say that, but retail is still seen by some people as a dead-end career and not a real profession. Why is that?
I don’t know. It’s changing though: we have a slightly more American set-up now with glamorous, high-profile fashion roles such as buyers and merchandisers. When you’re buying for a high-street retailer you have a lot of creative control, because you are deciding whose brands to stock. More and more people are aware of what it is to be a buyer or a merchandiser; the prestige gives people another reason to get involved. Unfortunately, there is still a taboo in this country about working in a shop. We need to start respecting the industry more than we do currently.
Who is the one person you would still love to dress?
It may sound boring, but it would have to be Sarah Jessica Parker . She gets it so right; she’s the hottest property all over the world since the Sex and the City movie. Her stylist, Patricia Field, is also my style icon. It would be quite interesting for me to take on a client such as her to see if I could improve on what my icon does for her. I doubt I’ll ever get the opportunity, but we all have our dreams and I still aspire to be better than I am.
What route did you take to getto where you are now in your career?
I got in by default actually. I was doing a drama and education course at drama school, but left after a year because I found the academic side too challenging. This lack of skills left me thinking I was stupid when I’m not: it just wasn’t the right arena for me. I fell into doing hair and make-up and found myself in the fashion industry, working with a stylist. I saw what she did and loved it. Twelve years on, I’m here!
Do you think it’s easier to get into the industry now?
It’s more accessible and kids are beginning to realise that they don’t have to go a certain route to get somewhere, which is important. You don’t always have to go to university to get into the creative arena, for example. For anyone wanting to work in fashion retail, my advice is simple: it is possible, so don’t think you can’t do it. Between the ages of 16 and 30, one of the m a j o r things that can hold you back is a lack of self-confidence. Yes, it is hard work – I mean, I work 75 hours per week – but the benefits you get are simply amazing.
What’s the best advice you could give people wanting to get into fashion retail?
Get as much experience as you can. If you want to get into buying, retail experience is essential. When you are working for a brand, be it Zara or Miss Selfridge, you’ve got to know who your consumer is: understand what they want to buy and what they want to wear. The best place to see that is face to face with them on the shop floor, so that exposure is imperative.
You’re doing the Celebrity Master Class at the Fashion Retail Academy in London this weekend. What’s that all about?
Basically, I’m giving some kids an insight into what I do. It’ll cover the full process of a styling job, from consultation and research through to the actual buying, as well as the styling and the presentation of the clothes. A whole styling job in a day with 21 young people watching me: it’s going to be a cracker!
What is the key to being a good retailer?
The buying experience needs to be satisfying for the customer. It’s not just what they buy from the store; if you want people to spend that money, you need to give them great advice as well.
Who is doing the best job of that at the moment?
Gap: I love them! They’ve adopted an American approach but I am old school, and I want the service to be amazing. I’m one of those people that will complain if the service isn’t good enough. There is a tendency in this country to not complain, but I choose all my restaurants and retailers on their level of customer service. Also, the style advisers in Topshop are amazing; they are actually trained and know what they are talking about when it comes to trends.
What are your style tips for this season?
There are three big looks I’m loving. Heritage is all about old English style and dressing, the kind of thing you would expect the Queen to wear out hunting. It’s tweeds and plaids and has got a real, old British feel. Another one is highland, which is tartan themes; tartan is just one of my favourite prints ever!
It all sounds quite regal...
Very regal, actually. You know what? We are going back to a more suitable way of dressing. My nan would prefer it to some of the styles that have been around for the last few years! However, as well as these more traditional styles we have got this huge gothic rock trend: beautiful, elegant, heavily embellished – it’s a bit Munsters, but I do like it! So, those three trends are all about heavy prints, lots of tweeds, lots of layering and slightly more costume. We are definitely getting more adventurous, and it’s about time!
Finally, do you still get star struck by the celebrities you are asked to dress?
Oh, constantly! When I did the Sex and the City premiere for Channel 4 I was meeting the cast, interviewing Vivienne Westwood about the wedding dress, and I was just looking around saying, “Oh my God!” Then on Charlotte Church’s show I was starstruck by Katie Price, but you do learn to keep a professional head on so you can do your job.
- Gok Wan has teamed up with Alliance & Leicester to host a Premier 21 Celebrity Master Class on Saturday for young people trying to break into fashion. Visit www.prem21.co.uk for more details
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