To British television viewers, David Kelly was the stereotypical Irishman, guaranteed perpetuity through his appearance as O'Reilly, the inept contractor hired by Basil in the Fawlty Towers episode "The Builders". After botching a job inside the hotel, he is seen taking issue with Basil's disgruntled wife. "I like a woman with spirit," he unwisely says, before Sybil batters him with an umbrella. "I've been 52 to 53 years on stage and yet Fawlty Towers, those full nine minutes, make me recognised anywhere in the world," he once said.

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Brasserie Joel Park Plaza Hotel, 200 Westminster Bridge Road, London SE1 7UT (020-7620 7272)

I've been driving round the huge roundabout on the south side of Westminster Bridge for years, and assumed there might be a pumping station inside, or a maximumsecurity prison. Imagine my surprise when it recently shed its dismal chrysalis and emerged as a lumpen butterfly, 15 stories high with 1,021 rooms and dramatic views of Big Ben.

Baumann’s Brasserie, 4-6 Stoneham Street, Coggeshall, Essex

For three sweaty hours, we'd been crawling north in bank holiday traffic. Another two hours, at least, lay ahead of us. We would have to break our journey to eat. Once, our only option would have been the nearest service-station cafe. But thankfully we live in the modern world. A quick search on the Blackberry, a phone call and a sat nav-guided escape route later, and we were happily installed in a dreamy little bistro, feasting on braised pork belly and pan-fried brill. Also, this being the modern world, charred antelope steak in goat's cheese sauce, but we'll come on to that later.

Adrian Hamilton: Feeling down and out in Paris

Paris Notebook

Favourite restaurant of the Sloanes closed down – because landlord choked on his bill

Earl Cadogan refuses to renew lease on celebrated London brasserie because 'the prices were too high'

Brompton Bar & Grill 243 Brompton Road, London SW3

Its predecessor was named after a restaurant reviewer. But is the Brompton Bar & Grill still beyond reproach?

Upmarket new chain Côte is bucking the crunch – but does your high street need a posh Café Rouge?

Côte, 124-126 Wardour Street, London W1, tel: 020 7287 9280

Designer diner: Thorpeness Brasserie And Emporium

We all know what a seaside restaurant should look like. Scrubbed wooden tables, perhaps draped with a tasteful bit of Cath Kidston lighthouse-sprigged oilcloth; old photos of grizzled fishermen; some fishing nets, driftwood or other maritime detritus; a blackboard advertising the Catch of the Day (inevitably just sold out). So what the hell was the owner of the Thorpeness Brasserie on when he dreamed up his decorative scheme?

A tip for Terence Conran: Keep your hands off my restaurant's name

DINERS THRILLED at booking a table at Aurora, Sir Terence Conran's newest eaterie, have found themselves seatless and disappointed. They are the losers in a restaurant war that has seen confused, tuxedoed diners turning up miles from their seats and table bookings cancelled.

On a roll at the brasserie

Roger Trapp reports on an advertising agency where all the cooks are creative

Restaurants: Where shall we meet in Piccadilly?

The Meridien, Piccadilly, which is already doing quite nicely food-wise with Marco Pierre White's Oak Room, has declared its intended dominance of the hotel-food market by opening another splendid restaurant on the same premises.

Victor Ubogu's favourite restaurant

Bath Rugby Club prop and former England international Victor Ubogu takes a no-nonsense, no-frills approach to eating out. "I like Langan's Brasserie for its consistency and ambience. It has such a relaxed atmosphere. The food is very good, and Richard Shepherd [chef and owner] is a top man.

Words: gally, v.

THE NOVELIST Patrick McGrath, editing Moby Dick in a TriBeCa bistro, looked up and read aloud about "that strange perplexity of inert irresolution, which, when the fishermen perceive it in the whale, they say he is gallied".

'Where's the haggis?' sniffs French diner as Conran opens in Paris

"ALCAZAR? It looks more like Alcatraz," said the balding Frenchman at the next table. "No I don't mean it. I'm just trying to adopt an English sense of humour to go with the food. How am I doing?"

THE 50 BEST PLACES TO EAT AL FRESCO

Each week in The Information, your essential entertainment guide to the next seven days, we invite an expert panel to share with us the fruits of their knowledge. This week, our foodie panellists reveal their favourite places to eat and drink outdoors, from hidden courtyards to country pubs. Nikki Spencer listens in
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