This mass-marketisation of one our most highly-prized foods is now in evidence

Good things come to he who waits. He, in this case, being the most singular waiter one could hope to meet, says Amol Rajan.

A face full of snails might not be your average person's idea of an expensive salon treatment, but that's just what Japan's high society have been shelling out for lately - at a cost of £65 for a five minute session.

Terry Kirby selects the best bottles to buy

The crustacean might be fiddly to prepare and less flashy than lobster, but it’s also sweeter, more delicately flavoured – and perfect for enjoying right now.

This week I've been eating... Spicy squid

1–1.5kg mussels
Rapeseed oil
3 shallots, sliced into half moons
1 garlic clove, crushed under a knife and then finely sliced
250ml medium-dry cider
250ml chicken stock
100ml double cream
4 sprigs of tarragon
Sea salt
Sourdough bread, to serve

A sort of bestiary of myth, legend and animal analogy, Wilderness uses wildlife traits as jumping-off points for enigmatic tales in typical Handsome Family manner.

If this was supposed to be the preliminary sketch for an Epsom masterpiece, then for now Liber Nauticus remains closer to an oil tanker than a dashing ocean clipper. Nonetheless she finds herself disputing favouritism for the Investec Oaks, bookmakers having taken an indulgent view of the heavy weather she made of her trial here.

Terry Kirby selects the best bottles to buy this spring

Serves 4

Not everything requires hours of slaving over a hot stove, says our resident man in the kitchen – some dishes are best served cold.

Terry Kirby selects the best bottles to buy