Tony Singh at his new restaurant, Tony's Table

We’re tiring of Masterchef in all its incarnations, aren’t we? We’re exhausted by Gordon Ramsay shouting at Yanks in Kitchen Nightmares; we’ve been charmed by Lorraine Pascal’s brownies and Levi Roots’s chilli sauce and Mary Berry’s tarts and Paul Hollywood’s kneading skills – but don’t you wish someone had the courage to say: “That’s enough cookery shows for now, thanks!” What culinary niche can possibly still be unexplored? Which gastro-territory remains uncharted? Don’t ask. The BBC always has an answer – or, two.

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Gregg's Table, Bermondsey Square Hotel, Bermondsey Square, Tower Bridge Road, London SE1

It's funny how the personality of a TV celebrity can permeate a place he owns. Gregg Wallace comes across on MasterChef as a no-nonsense, don't-muck-about, straight-talking, plain-dealing kind of geezer, not a foodie, certainly not a cook, just a chap who loves his food and appreciates it in big quantities. His most characteristic utterance in praise of a dish is, "I could polish off a 'ole plate of that". When you visit his new restaurant, Gregg's grinning visage keeps turning up in your head, beaming encouragement, defying you to find fault and criticise his down-home style.

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