192-PART GUIDE TO THE WORLD: PART 20: BHUTAN

OFFICIAL NAME

Kingdom of Bhutan. Though known to the outside world as Bhutan, its inhabitants have referred to their country as Drukyul (land of the thunder dragon) since the 13th century.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE

Dzongkha is the official language, which is similar to Tibetan (from which it is derived). It has some unusual sounds that have no English equivalent, producing such seeming tongue-twisters as ngultrum (the unit of currency). Due to the physical isolation of many villages, a variety of dialects are spoken. Nepali is common in the south of the country (about a quarter of the population are settlers from Nepal), and Sharchop Kha is spoken in the east.

POPULATION

600,000.

SIZE

17,954 square miles. Belgium would fit into it about one and a half times.

BEST MONUMENT

Trashi Chhoe Dzong, a fort-monastery built as a symbol of the capital, overlooking the spectacular Thimpu Valley. It housed the original National Assembly and is now home to the King's throne room and offices.

NATIONAL DISH

Ema datse comprises large, hot green chillies (prepared as a vegetable rather than a seasoning), in a cheese sauce. Phak sha laphu (stewed pork with radish) is another favourite traditional dish. Also, look out for the local red variety of rice, served with daal (lentils).

CLIMATE

Think Miami or Cairo, as Bhutan is on the same latitude. However, the climate varies widely depending on the elevation. At its highest points (7,872ft and above, in the Himalayan regions), there is perpetual snow.

MOST FAMOUS CITIZEN

Undoubtedly King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, revered by his population and favoured by tourists as he continued his father's modernisation efforts (including the opening up of the country to foreign visitors), begun in the Sixties.

BEST MOMENT IN HISTORY

For travellers, it has to be when Bhutan privatised its small tourist industry and opened up to mass tourism, in 1991. Contrary to popular myth, Bhutan is not a difficult country to travel to, and you do not have to be a royal guest to visit it. Subject to some well-defined restrictions, an independent traveller could organise a visa within 10 days.

WORST MOMENT IN HISTORY

Very few bad ones but a recent contender has to be the burning down of the original Taktshang Monastery in April 1998, when the main structure and all its contents were destroyed. Until the fire, Taktshang Monastery ("Tiger's Nest") would have made it into the Best Monument category, and what is left of it, perched 2,952ft up on the side of a cliff, is still worth a visit. There are plans to rebuild it in its original form, as soon as an auspicious date has been set.

ESSENTIAL ACCESSORIES

Other than a visa, a bow and arrow. As far back as anyone can remember, the Bhutanese have been passionate about datse (archery), and more or less every village has a range. However, this is not the equivalent to a game of darts in your local pub. Enthusiasts aim at targets in excess of Olympic-standard distances (50m/164ft). These sure-shots fire at small wooden targets 140m away, so far away in fact that team members have to gather dangerously close to the bull's-eye and yell back to the archer to let him know how many points he's scored.

WHAT NOT TO DO

Take great care over how you treat any stray dogs that might wander on to your path. The Bhutanese believe that dogs are more than a man's best friend, more like his canine cousin. This is because in Bhutan, dogs are seen as having the best chance of being reborn as humans. A popular Bhutanese proverb is: "If merit is to be earned, be good and kind to dogs".