Grenoble, France

WHY GO NOW?

Snow-capped mountain peaks still encircle this handsome city in the valley of the Isère, but the summer celebrations are in full swing. A former Winter Olympics venue, Grenoble is one of the sunniest places in France. It enjoys 2,000 hours of sunshine each year, and to prove it an artificial beach - la Plage de la Bifurk (1) - will be in place until November (00 33 4 76 23 57 16; www.plagedelabifurk.com). Grenoble is easier than ever to reach, with direct flights from Britain and good train connections.

TOUCH DOWN

Saint-Geoirs (www.grenoble-airport.com) airport is about 45km north-west of the city, served from Stansted by Ryanair (0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com). The transfer bus to Grenoble station (2) takes around an hour for a fare of €4 (£2.75); see www.transisere.fr for times. There are also regular direct buses from Lyon-Saint Exupéry airport, about 100km north-west of Grenoble, which is served by British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com) from Manchester, Birmingham and London Heathrow, and from Stansted by easyJet (0905 821 0905; www.easyJet.com).

By rail, you can travel on Eurostar (08705 186 186; www.eurostar.com) from London via Paris to Grenoble in under seven-and-a-half hours, for around £119 return.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

Grenoble's old town, the lively Notre Dame district, occupies the Left Bank of the Isère. It is packed with interesting shops, busy bars (meeting the demands of a big student population) and numerous restaurants in a maze of narrow streets. Above it all, on the other side of the river, stands the fort of the Bastille (3). The main tourist office (4) is at 14 rue de la République (open 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am to 5pm Sundays and public holidays; 00 33 4 76 42 41 41; www.grenoble-isere.info). To the east is the quieter Ile Verte district where the Museum of Grenoble (5) is located. In the west is the main commercial district and to the south is the modern extension to the city, which arrived courtesy of the 1968 Winter Olympics and has beautiful parks and sporting facilities.

CHECK IN

For a sense of history, book a room at the 17th-century Hôtel de l'Europe (6) at 22 Place Grenette (00 33 4 76 46 16 94; www.hoteleurope.fr) - Grenoble's oldest hotel. Despite its age, it has an up-to-date fitness room and sauna, as well as well-appointed rooms that cost from €43 (£30) to €75 (£54); breakfast costs €6 (£4.40). The four-star Park Hôtel Grenoble (7) at 10 Place Paul Mistral (00 33 4 76 85 81 23; www.park-hotel-grenoble.fr) has lavish interiors where leather armchairs and wood panelling lend a gentleman's club atmosphere. It is closed until 28 August; doubles from €165 (£113), with breakfast an extra €15 (£10.70) per person.

Of the three Mercure hotels in Grenoble, the Hôtel Mercure Grenoble Centre (8), south of the centre at 12 boulevard Maréchal-Joffre (00 33 4 76 87 88 41; www.accor hotels.com) has spacious rooms and reasonable access to all parts of the city. Doubles from €111 (£80), breakfast €12 (£8.50) per person. The hotel's Le Magnolia restaurant is noted for its Dauphinoise cuisine and fine wines.

TAKE A VIEW

Go to the Bastille (3). The Les Bulles cable-car ride (00 33 4 76 44 33 65; www.bastille-grenoble.com) from the quayside base station (9) takes you to a height of 498m above sea level for fantastic views across the city and mountains. Below is the river Isère; the old town with its red-tiled roofs; and long, straight boulevards cutting clean lines through a city that is remarkably flat, given the surrounding terrain. A return ticket is €5.80 (£4).

TAKE A HIKE

Start a cool morning walk at the corner (10) of rue Lafayette, one of many pedestrian thoroughfares in the centre, and rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. At number 2 on the latter you'll find the house where the philosopher stayed in 1768. Number 14 was the birthplace of Henri Beyle, aka Stendhal (1783-1842) - the influential leader of French Romantic writers. To the west is Place Grenette (11), the former venue for public executions. Through an arcade at the start of rue Montorge are the rose garden and tree-lined pathways of the Jardin de Ville (12). On to rue Hector Berlioz you come to Place Saint-André (13) and its 14th-century church: the dark interior houses some huge religious paintings hung high up in the vaulted ceiling. Opposite is the former Parliamentary building (14), founded in 1453, which is a mixture of gothic and renaissance architecture. Through Place aux Herbes (15), and a very busy fruit and vegetable market, turn left onto rue Renauldon and then rue de Lionne. You'll see a footbridge: passerelle Saint-Laurent (16), crossing the river and connecting the city centre with the Saint-Laurent or Italian Quarter. Over the bridge on the Right Bank is a magnificent serpent and lion sculpture representing the city taming the river. Back on the Left Bank is rue Chenoise, which has several 14th-century houses and beautiful interior courtyards (check out number 10). Continue on to Place Notre-Dame and its cathedral (17) and former Bishop's Palace, now the Musée de l'Ancien Evêché. The lofty Fontaine des Trois Ordres commemorates the centennial of the French Revolution.

LUNCH ON THE RUN

La Boîte à Sardines (00 33 4 76 44 27 84) at 1 Place Claveyson (18) is a central and very spacious corner café; almost every table has a window view. This is a former creamery, and retains its rustic charm. It serves imaginative sandwiches from €5 (£3.50).

WINDOW SHOPPING

On Place Sainte-Claire (19) is "Halle Sainte-Claire" market, built in 1874. Alternatively, head for rue Bayard and rue Voltaire in the old town for a trip to antique heaven; there's everything from jewellery and books to furniture.

CULTURAL AFTERNOON

The Museum of Grenoble (5) at 5 Place de Lavalette (00 33 4 76 63 44 44; www.museedegrenoble.fr) is one of the best museums in France. It has a superb collection of ancient and contemporary art and is situated in a beautiful park on the edge of the old town. On Saturdays, at 3pm, there is a guided tour to help you get the most from your visit. Artists in the collection include Gauguin, Matisse, Bonnard, Chagall, Klee, Magritte, Miro and Picasso. Open 10am to 6.30pm daily except Tuesdays, admission €5 (£3.50).

AN APERITIF

Le Sporting Café (00 33 4 76 44 22 58) on Place Grenette (11) is in the heart of the pedestrianised area with two lively bars, and heated terrace. It is popular with tourists and locals, and is ideal for people-watching. Cocktails are served all day from around €7 (£5).

DINING WITH THE LOCALS

The proximity of the Italian border, 80km to the east, is reflected in the menus of Grenoble. But there are still plenty of traditional Dauphinoise (French Savoy) options with tartiflette, fondue and raclette featuring high on the menu. Le Chasse-Spleen (00 33 4 38 37 03 52) is opposite the Museum of Grenoble (5) at 6 place de Lavalette. A seasonal Dauphinoise menu includes Chartreuse cheeses, salads, roasted walnuts and superb ravioli. It is an upmarket affair, but is reasonably priced - main courses cost between €19 (£13) and €26 (£18). Unfortunately it is closed on Saturday and Sunday so Friday night is the only weekend option. La Ferme à Dédé (20) at 24 rue Barnave (00 33 4 76 54 00 33) is all you imagine a traditional French restaurant to be, complete with gingham tablecloths and scrubbed pine floors. OK, our waiter was from Cheltenham, but his French was faultless and the food is hearty and delicious.

SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH

The Cathedral of Notre Dame (17) has a history spanning hundreds of years. Sunday Mass is celebrated at 9.30am, otherwise it is open daily except Tuesdays, 10am to 7pm. The recently discovered Baptistry, dating from the end of the fourth century, is accessed via the adjoining Musée de l'Ancien Evêché; open 9am-6pm daily except Wednesdays (1.30pm-6pm) and Sunday (10am-7pm), admission free.

OUT TO BRUNCH

The Café de la Table Ronde (21) on Place St-André (00 33 4 76 44 51 41) has an impressive guest list. Stendhal and Rousseau used to meet here, and the Belgian songwriter Jacques Brel was a more recent visitor.

A WALK IN THE PARK

Parc Paul Mistral (22) was named after a former mayor of Grenoble who organised an international fair on hydroelectric power in 1925. The only remaining structure from that era is the Tour Perret, but there are gentle hills, a soothing stream and tree-lined pathways as well as sculptures by Gregor Apostu, Gigi Guadagnucci and Robert Roussil.

ICING ON THE CAKE

You can't leave without sampling the region's aromatic chartreuse liqueur, with its distinctive green or yellow colour, flavoured with orange peel and peppermint. Be warned: it is very strong, so try it as a digestif after a large helping of potato gratin (gratin dauphinois) and Saint-Marcellin cheese.