Istanbul

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WHY GO NOW?

Autumn brings cool Black Sea breezes to Istanbul, relieving the city of the stifling heat and waking it from its summer lethargy; late September or October are ideal months to visit this global junction. Don't wait too long, though: the first chills of winter arrive by November.

TOUCH DOWN

Istanbul's main airport, Ataturk, is 20km west of the city centre. You can fly from Heathrow on British Airways (0844 493 0787; www.ba.com) and Turkish Airlines (020-7766 9300; www.thy.com); the latter also flies from Stansted and Manchester. On arrival, British passport holders must pay £10 for a visa.

The best route into town is a train/tram combo. At the airport take the Hafif Metro to Zeytinburnu and transfer to the tram. This heads first to Sultanahmet, the old core of the city, then on to Beyoglu, the newer commercial centre, and costs only 2.80 New Turkish Lira (written 2.80YTL and worth £1.30).

Taxis to the centre cost about 30YTL (£14) and take between 20 minutes and an hour, depending on traffic. From Luton, and soon from Gatwick, easyJet (0905 821 0905; www.easyjet.com) flies to Istanbul's second airport, Sabiha Gokcen, 40km east of the centre. A taxi costs about 75YTL (£35), while the airport shuttle bus (00 90 212 518 03 54; www.istanbulairportshuttle.com) offers drop-offs at central hotels for only €7 (£6) depending on the number of passengers.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

Istanbul is essentially a maritime city. The Bosphorus, connecting the Black Sea to the world, bisects not just the city but Europe and Asia. Meanwhile the Golden Horn estuary separates the two oldest quarters of Istanbul: Sultanahmet and Beyoglu. Many stay in Sultanahmet, with all the attractions on the doorstep. If you need a rest from walking, the trams have a flat fare of 1.40YTL (65p).

CHECK IN

Sultanahmet has numerous budget- to mid-range hotels. A good bet is the old Ottoman villa of Sari Konak (1) on Mimar Mehmet Aga Caddesi, just below the Blue Mosque (00 90 212 638 62 58; www.istanbulhotelsarikonak.com). Double rooms start at €99 (£84), including breakfast on the fantastic roof terrace. The latest boutique hotel is the W (2) at 22 Suleyman Seba Caddesi, in the more modern area of Besiktas (00 90 212 381 2121; www.starwoodhotels.com/whotel). Prices for a double excluding breakfast start at €264 (£220).

Four Seasons already has a luxurious former prison in Sultanahmet on its books, but its latest venture is the Four Seasons Bosphorus (3) at 28 Ciragan Caddesi also over in Besiktas (00 90 212 381 4000; www.fourseasons.com/bosphorus). A double room starts at €400 (£320) including breakfast.

TAKE A HIKE

To see some of the contrasting faces of the city start in Taksim Square (4), at the heart of Beyoglu. Strike out down Istiklal Caddesi, Istanbul's version of Barcelona's Ramblas: a river of people, eddying in and out of the eateries and shops which fill the grand 19th-century buildings. Pop into Saray Muhallebicisi at number 173 for some extraordinarily sticky-sweet sustenance before taking a quick detour to the Balik Pazari, the fish market, on your right. At the end, at Tunel Station (5), bear left and pass the splendid Galata Tower (6) down to Galata Bridge (7), spanning the Golden Horn. The bridge itself is an unremarkable concrete structure but the chaotic bustle of the place and the diverse swathes of humanity there are part of the character of the city.

Next, savour the change of atmosphere as you enter Sultanahmet. The underpass next to the docks brings you out next to the New Mosque (8) – it doesn't look very new, but presumably it did when it was completed in 1663. The Spice Market (9) behind it conjures up the exotic and unexpected. From here, head west towards Suleymaniye Mosque (10), which marks the apogee of architect Koca Mimar Sinan's partnership with Sultan Suleyman.

LUNCH ON THE RUN

Head back to Galata Bridge (7) and grab yourself a balik ekmek, literally "fish bread", served from makeshift grills at Emininou docks under the bridge. The fish come fresh from the anglers on the bridge. Expect to pay about 5YTL/£2.30. Wash it down with ayran – the popular, slightly salty yoghurt drink.

CULTURAL AFTERNOON

The Russian poet Joseph Brodsky wrote of places "where history is inescapable... places where geography provokes history. Such is Istanbul, alias Constantinople, alias Byzantium". A prime geo-historical fulcrum is Topkapi Palace (11). From here the sultans ruled an empire that dominated the Eastern Mediterranean for from the 15th to the 19th centuries. The palace is a sprawling site of opulent pavilions where history and myth are stirred in the same pot. It's open 9am-5pm daily except Tuesdays; the admission fee of 10YTL (£4.50) will give you access to all except the harem which costs the same again, but it's worth it.

WINDOW SHOPPING

Istanbul had shopping malls long before the West, with retail labyrinths such as the Grand Bazaar (12). The city's largest and oldest covered market is renowned for its gold, leather and carpets. Go prepared for banter, bartering and offers of tea; and seek out the less-trodden paths. It's open roughly 9am-7pm daily except Sundays.

AN APERITIF

The local beer, Efes, can be fully endorsed; raki, the local anise-based liquor, is more of an acquired taste. A novel way to start an evening is to join the crowds in the Tophane area (13) smoking nargileh, or the water pipe. Sit down, choose your poison from a menu and bubble away on tobacco flavoured with everything from apple to cappuccino.

DINNER WITH THE LOCALS

Get yourself to Nevizade Sokak (14) in Beyoglu – you'll find a throbbing, convivial atmosphere. The alleys are rammed every night with diners and revellers. Tables bundle into the street, almond-sellers and buskers squeeze through the crowds. Throw yourself into the madness, and, if you can, sit outside.

SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH

You're spoilt. The Blue Mosque (15) and Aya Sofia (16), two of the world's most remarkable examples of religious architecture, face each other in Sultanahmet. The Aya Sofia was built in the 6th century on the orders of Emperor Justinian, who wanted something unmatched in Christendom, and got it. From 1453 it was a mosque, until Ataturk made it a museum in 1935. The heavily buttressed exterior doesn't prepare you for the soaring sense of space and scale inside. Not even the extensive scaffolding can muffle the wonder of the immense dome. But don't neglect the sparkling Byzantine mosaics. The Aya Sofia is open 9.30am-4.30pm daily except Mondays, admission 10YTL (£4.50).

Sultan Ahmet I and his architect Mehmet Aga set out to better the Aya Sofia at the beginning of the 17th century when they built the Blue Mosque. The "blue" comes from the interior tilework. This time, its true beauty can be appreciated from outside – return here from dusk when it is floodlit. It opens 9am daily and closes an hour before sundown as well as during prayer times; admission free.

OUT TO BRUNCH

Across the road on Divanyolu Caddesi is Sultanahmet Koftecisi (17), a cheerful and reasonably cheap restaurant (00 90 212 513 14 38) open 9am-11pm daily. It is popular with locals as well as tourists. The secret of its success? Meatballs – a plate of the very best for 8YTL (£3.60).

TAKE A RIDE

Get out onto the Bosphorus. The waters around Istanbul offer an exhilarating spectacle of warships, cargoes and cruise-liners, not to mention superlative views of the city. Public ferries (00 90 212 444 44 36; www.ido.com.tr/en) have a flat fare of 1.40YTL (65p). The best one for a Sunday is the short hop from the boat station at Eminonu (8) to the one at Besiktas (18); from here wander along the shore to pretty Ortakoy, with its cobbled streets, outstanding views and buzzing weekend artisan market.

WALK IN THE PARK

Yildiz Park (19), in Besiktas is one of the city's finest and largest. If the sun is hot it offers shade, grass and picnic potential.

ICING ON THE CAKE

The mosque of Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Camii (20), built in 1571 on the south side of Sultanahmet, is open from sunrise to sunset daily, admission free. There's a good chance you'll have this place to yourself, except perhaps for a murmuring devotee. It's small and beautiful and has a sense of intimate serenity not found in the better-known buildings.

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