Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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WHY GO NOW?

Malaysia's capital, commonly known as "KL", is a vibrant, modern city offering some of the best shopping opportunities in South-east Asia. However, it is also a city with a rich multicultural heritage and numerous festivals each year. This year's National Day celebrations on 31 August mark the 49th anniversary of independence.

TOUCH DOWN

Malaysia Airlines (0870 607 9090; www.malaysiaairlines.com) flies non-stop from Heathrow to Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA), around 75km south of the city in Sepang. Many other airlines offer connecting flights; Emirates (0870 243 2222; www.emirates.com) links Gatwick, Heathrow, Birmingham, Manchester and Glasgow with Kuala Lumpur via Dubai.

The 28-minute KLIA Ekspres train journey from the airport to KL Sentral railway station (1) costs RM35 (£5). Once here take a Light Rail Transit (LRT) train into the city centre - a one-way fare costs RM1.60 (25p). Alternatively, the KLIA Ekspres "VIP Service", costing RM100 (£15), includes the train fare, porter service and limousine from KL Sentral to anywhere in the city.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

The historic heart of Kuala Lumpur is Padang Merdeka (2) (Independence Square), where a clutch of colonial edifices still stand. To the south-east lies Chinatown, with its bustling markets. North of Padang Merdeka are the Little India and Chow Kit districts. The modern Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC) towards the east is the business area, and is centred on the awesome 451m-tall Petronas Twin Towers (3), the tallest twin structures in the world, which make a handy landmark. The Malaysian Tourist Information Complex (4) is nearby, at 109 Jalan Ampang (00 60 3 2164 3929; www.tourism.gov.my). It opens daily 9am-6pm. South of KLCC, heading down Jalan Sultan Ismail, the major shopping and entertainment area known as the Golden Triangle is packed with bars, clubs and giant malls.

CHECK IN

In the heart of the Golden Triangle, Number Eight (5) at 8-10 Tengkat Tong Shin (00 60 3 2144 2050; www.numbereight.com.my) is one of the smartest budget options in town, occupying a couple of restored traditional Chinese shophouses. Doubles start from RM95 (£14) while a dorm bed costs RM30 (£4.50), including breakfast.

Another evocative choice is the Heritage Station Hotel (6), inside the historic Raj-style KL Train Station on Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin (00 60 3 2273 5588; www.heritagehotelmalaysia.com). Most rooms have been given a contemporary makeover, but suites with four-poster beds offer a taste of colonial grandeur. Doubles start at RM98 (£14) and suites are RM178 (£26), including breakfast. For more comfort, try the Shangri-La Hotel (7) at 11 Jalan Sultan Ismail (bookable through 0870 128 6000; www.shangri-la.com/kualalumpur) which offers spacious, tastefully furnished rooms and facilities including a pool and tennis courts. Doubles cost from RM565 (£81) including breakfast.

TAKE A HIKE

For a quick look over historic Kuala Lumpur, start off outside St Mary's Cathedral (8) and walk south along Padang Merdeka (2), passing the mock-Tudor Royal Selangor Club and the National History Museum. Cross Jalan Raja Laut and head east along Lebuh Pasar Besar. Turn south down Jalan Hang Kasturi, where you'll find the Central Market (9), then east on Jalan Cheng Lock. Take a right turn on to Jalan Tun HS Lee to reach the Sri Mahamariamman Hindu temple (10). Take a left turn on to Jalan Sultan then head south to the frenetic street market on Jalan Petaling.

LUNCH ON THE RUN

Kuala Lumpur is a great place to try all kinds of Asian food, often cheaply. Check out the hawker stalls along Jalan Masjid India for tasty Indian fare, or try the food courts inside the big shopping centres; the one inside the Sungei Wang Plaza (11) offers simple Malay and Chinese dishes.

WINDOW SHOPPING

Malaysia's biggest shopping mall, Berjaya Times Square (12), is on Jalan Imbi (00 60 3 2144 9821; www.timessquarekl.com) and houses 1,000 individual shops and an indoor theme park. For more local flavour, head to the art deco Central Market (9) on Jalan Cheng Lock and shop for arts, crafts and antiques.

AN APERITIF

The Bangsar district is full of bars and restaurants, and is particularly lively on Saturday and Sunday nights. Expats and tourists crowd into Finnegans Irish Pub (13) at 6 Jalan Telawi Lama (00 60 3 2284 9024) for a pint of Guinness in "authentic" surroundings - the pub was shipped out from Ireland in pieces a decade ago. Numerous fashionable bars and clubs congregate in the Golden Triangle, including Modesto's (14) on Jalan P Ramlee, where you can sip cocktails to an R&B soundtrack.

DINING WITH THE LOCALS

In an old Chinese mansion at 35 Jalan Ampang, The Kapitan's Club (15) (00 60 3 2031 0242) is a perfect place to sample traditional Nyonya (Straits Chinese) cooking. Excellent night markets abound in Kuala Lumpur. Try Chow Kit Market (16), off Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, open from around 6pm to 2am daily, which has food stalls selling Malay, Indian and Chinese snacks.

SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH

The modest St Mary's Cathedral (8) is a squat, dazzlingly whitewashed building standing in its own grounds at the northern end of Padang Merdeka. Founded in 1893 and built in the English early Gothic style, it achieved cathedral status only in 1983.

A WALK IN THE PARK

To the west of the city centre are the Lake Gardens (17), originally laid out in the 1880s as a peaceful setting for the villas of the governing British elite. Today it's a welcome patch of greenery centred on a large artificial lake, with formal lawns and landscaped gardens. The gardens are open 9am-6pm daily, admission free.

OUT TO BRUNCH

Inside the Sheraton Imperial Hotel (18) on Jalan Sultan Ismail is the charming Botanica Brasserie (00 60 3 2717 9933), a large, open palm-filled atrium. The vast all-day buffet, which consists of a wide array of Malay and international dishes costs RM70 (£10).

TAKE A RIDE

Hop on one of the regular buses from Puduraya Bus Station (19) to the Batu Caves, 15km north of town. The caves are sacred to Malaysia's Hindu community, and are adorned with colourful statues. The best time to visit is during the Thaipusam festival in January or February when up to a million pilgrims make their way here. The caves are open 8am-8pm daily, admission free.

WRITE A POSTCARD

Sit down to afternoon tea in the revolving restaurant of the 421m-high KL Tower (20) (00 60 3 2020 5444; www.menarakl.com.my) and write a postcard home.

CULTURAL AFTERNOON

Take a whirlwind tour through the history and culture of Malaysia at the National Museum (21) on Jalan Damansara (00 60 3 2282 6255; www.museum.gov.my). Intriguing displays include traditional costumes and musical instruments plus exhibitions on the rituals and ceremonies followed by the country's various ethnic groups.

ICING ON THE CAKE

The fascinating Islamic Arts Museum (22) is housed in a striking modern building on Jalan Lembah Perdana (00 60 3 2274 2020; www.iamm.org.my). Here you can learn about artistic traditions from across the Muslim world and look over beautifully presented exhibits including jewellery from India, textiles from Central Asia and armour from the Ottoman Empire. A highlight is an ornate, reconstructed room from 19th-century Syria. Open 10am-6pm daily except Monday, admission RM12 (£1.75).

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