Providence, USA

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WHY GO NOW?

At any time of the year, the history and elegance of Rhode Island's capital is alluring. But tonight, summer begins in Providence – in the shape of the first WaterFire event of the year, in which fires are lit in braziers in the three rivers that converge in the city. This spectacle provides an excellent excuse to visit the main city between Boston and New York and see just how tempting is Providence.

TOUCH DOWN

The nearest gateway is Boston, served from London Heathrow by American Airlines, British Airways and Virgin Atlantic. From Boston's Logan airport, take bus SL1 direct to South Station (the final stop), for a fare of $2 (£1.05). MBTA trains run more or less hourly to Providence for a fare of $7.75 (£4.10), taking 70 minutes to reach the city's train station (1) north of downtown; if you are in more of a hurry, Amtrak trains are 50 per cent faster and twice as expensive.

CHECK IN

Five minutes' walk from the station takes you to the Renaissance Providence Hotel (2) at 5 Avenue of the Arts (001 401 919 5000; www.renaissanceprovidence.com). This began life as a Masonic temple, but before the structure could be completed it fell victim to the Depression. For seven decades it stood as an empty shell; finally, last year it became Providence's most characterful luxury hotel. The Masonic elements are emphasised, and there is a theatrical dimension: heavy red velvet curtains in the reception area, with staff described as "performance artists". I paid $170 (£89), room only, which is at the lower end of rates for one of the 272 rooms.

Another miraculous transformation is on offer at The Old Court (3), a converted 145-year-old rectory at 144 Benefit Street (001 401 751 2002; www.oldcourt.com). This "bed and breakfast inn" has just 10 double/twin rooms, each individually furnished and with a name rather than a number. Rooms start at $115 (£60), including breakfast.

In the trendy Federal Hill area, the Dolce Villa (4) is a modest boutique hotel just off the main drag, Atwells Avenue, at 63 DePasquale Plaza (001 401 383 7031; www.dolcevillari.com). A double starts at $179 (£94), room only.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

The building that dominates the city is the handsome Rhode Island State House (5), which has the fourth-largest self-supporting dome on earth, and is topped by a figure called The Independent Man. The opulent interior is well worth visiting (admission free, self-guided tours available), but the hours do not suit weekenders: 8.30am-4.30pm, Monday to Friday.

On the east bank of the Providence River, Brown University (6) is an Ivy League masterpiece, and forms the heart of East Side. The city centre is styled "Downcity". To the west, across the intrusive I-95 freeway, Federal Hill is Little Italy.

Kennedy Plaza (7) is hub for the city and state's bus network, flat fare $1.50 (£0.80).

The Visitors' Bureau (8) is located in a corner of the Convention Center at One Sabin Street (001 401 751 1177; www.goprovidence.com). It is staffed 8.30am-4.30pm from Monday to Friday.

TAKE A HIKE

Westminster Street is the most characterful thoroughfare in Providence. In the half-mile starting at the western end, at Empire Street (9), a compendium of architecture displays a jumbled time-line through the centuries. In particular, investigate the Arcade (10) – the first shopping mall in America, celebrating its 180th anniversary this year. Glance back at the point where Westminster and Weybosset streets meet to view the Turk's Head (11) that keeps a watchful eye over the Providence River; close by, in a brick display area, are panels describing the history of the area. Cross the river and continue on what has become College Street for a few yards uphill to the junction with Benefit Street. On the other side of the road is one of the wonders of Providence: the Athenaeum (12), established as a public library in 1831 and still going strong. The Greek Revival exterior is impressive enough; but when you step inside (which you can freely do 9am-5pm daily except Sundays 1-5pm), you will be amazed that such an "old-school" library could survive so well in the 21st century.

TAKE A VIEW...

... from pretty little Prospect Park (13) on Congdon Street, with breathtaking vistas over the city and a statue of the remarkable Roger Williams – the 17th-century London-born cleric who became founder of Providence, advocate of religious freedom and friend of native Americans.

LUNCH ON THE RUN

Stay on the East Side for a feed at Rue De L'Espoir (14) at 99 Hope Street (001 401 751 8890; www.therue.com). Despite the name, the menu features American bistro cooking, and is particularly strong on egg dishes. Further south, Amy's Place (15) at 214 Wickenden Street (001 401 274 9966; www.thechubbins.com) offers fast, fresh and friendly service, 8.30am-5pm daily.

CULTURAL AFTERNOON

"Ris-dee" is the accepted truncation for the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), whose Museum of Art (16) at 224 Benefit Street (001 401 454 6500; www.risdmuseum.com) is one of the cultural highlights of America's East Coast. Within a recently extended space you can see a compendium of great art: from Etruscan and Roman sculpture via medieval and Renaissance paintings to works by Cezanne and Warhol, all within the most handsome of surroundings. There is even a 12th-century Romanesque church portal brought over from France by William Randolph Hearst. It opens 10am-5pm daily except Mondays, admission $8 (£4.20).

WINDOW SHOPPING

Providence has no shortage of shopping malls, but for more individual stores you should investigate Westminster Street, particularly Oop! (17) at number 220 (001 401 270 4366; www.oopstuff.com), a colourful and inventive shop full of intriguing gifts. To pick up the ingredients for a first-class picnic, follow your nose along Atwells Avenue on Federal Hill – in particular, check out the Italian delicatessen Venda Ravioli (18) at No 265 (001 401 421 9105; www.vendaravioli.com).

AN APERITIF

The most appealing of Providence's microbreweries is the Trinity Brewhouse (19) on the corner of Fountain and Empire streets (001 401 453 BEER; www.trinitybrewhouse.com), which promises "We Sell Heaven By The Pint" and whose sign recommends you "Think Global, Drink Local". Try a glass of award-winning Rhode Island IPA.

DINING WITH LOCALS

If you can't drag yourself away from the Trinity, which opens until 1am most nights and 2am at weekends, it has a wholesome dinner menu. But for a Providence institution go a short way west to Federal Hill and track down Angelo's (20) at 141 Atwells Avenue (001 401 621 8171; www.angelosonthehill.com). Since 1924 the great, good and ordinary have been queuing up for dishes such as hand-fried eggplant (aubergine) parmigiano and its signature dish of veal and peppers. Expect to share a table with Rhode Island regulars, and to pay around $20 (£11) per person, which even includes a can of local Narrangansett beer.

SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH

The First Baptist Church in America (21) overlooks Main Street between Thomas and College streets (001 401 454 3418; www.fbcia.org). The name says it all; this church is "the cradle of religious liberty in America". It was founded by Roger Williams in 1638, though the present Meeting House dates from 1775. The style of this bulky timber church has strong Georgian overtones. You can visit the interior only 10am-4pm from Monday to Friday.

OUT TO BRUNCH

Nick's on Broadway (22) is a dramatic dining concept at 500 Broadway (001 401 421 0286). The celebrity chef Derek Wagner has taken the classic US diner and given it a 21st-century twist – both in the decor, which uses chrome and colour in an industrial context, and a menu that gives a touch of class to traditional American fare. Nick's opens 8am-3pm on Sundays, and 7am-3pm from Wednesday to Saturday (when it also serves dinner).

Listen to Simon Calder's interview with celebrity chef Derek Wagner

WALK IN THE PARK

Providence has its own National Park in the city centre, in the shape of the Roger Williams National Memorial (23). This four-acre garden celebrates the founder of Rhode Island; and a helpful Visitor Center reveals more about the man who insisted on religious tolerance for Catholics, Jews and Muslims – and about the Narragansett people who welcomed him. It opens 9am-4.30pm daily.

TAKE A RIDE

Between now and 16 October, ferries (001 401 453 6800; www.nefastferries.com) sail from Conley's Wharf (24), south of Downcity, to Newport five times a day, taking just over an hour for a one-way fare of $9 (£4.75). You arrive at a playground of the rich: on the water, yachts and super-yachts; on the shore, prestigious restaurants; and behind high gates, some absurdly extravagant mansions.

ICING ON THE CAKE

The Culinary Arts Museum (25) at Johnson & Wales University, 315 Harborside Avenue (001 401 598 2805; www.culinary.org) masterfully combines food and fashion, drink and design, and has a fascinating exposition of the diner – which originated in Providence. (The museum director, Richard Gutman, is the world's leading expert on diners.) It also features a feast of wedding cakes, cloaked in extravagant icing. It opens 10am-5pm daily except Mondays, admission $4 (£2.20).

Listen to Simon Calder's interview with Richard Gutman, curator of the Culinary Arts Museum

State Lines: 20. Rhode Island

Population: 1 million

Area: one-tenth the size of Wales

Capital: Providence

Date in Union: 29 May 1790

Flower: Violet

Motto: "Hope"

Nickname: The Ocean State

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