Trieste, Italy

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WHY GO NOW?

This handsome and most un-Italian of Italian cities becomes more accessible from next Wednesday, when flights begin from Birmingham. Known as Tergeste to the Romans, Trieste sits on the the Adriatic coast, close to the Slovenian border, and was formerly the major port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It became part of Italy in 1918, following the end of the empire, which left it rich in neo-classical and Art Nouveau palazzos and piazzas.

With warm sunshine and a glittering gulf, what better time for a two-day tryst with charming Trieste?

TOUCH DOWN

Trieste's airport, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, is 30km north-west of the city, and is served by Ryanair (0870 246 0000; www.ryanair.com) from Stansted and Birmingham. Bus 51 runs to the city's bus station (1) in 50 minutes; buy the €2.65 (£2.20) ticket from the machine in the arrivals hall.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

The historic heart of Trieste is the Citta Vecchia (old town) – a triangular jumble of medieval streets whose apex is the San Giusto hill. The largest seaside square in Europe, the Piazza de Unita d'Italia is the city's focal point, and is spectacularly floodlit at night. The tourist office (2) is here, at 4b (00 39 040 347 8312; www.turismofvg.it), and opens 9am-7pm daily, from May to October. Buy a 48-hour Friuli-Venezia Giulia (FVG) card for €15 (£13) to gain free admission to most museums and galleries.

In the 18th century, a new town, Borgo Teresiano, was laid out in a grid pattern north of the old town. It is also the location of the Canal Grande, with its attendant warehouses and wharves.

Getting around by bus or tram is easy, and the flat fare is €1 (85p).

CHECK IN

The Grand Hotel Duchi d'Aosta (3) is in prime position on the Piazza de Unita d'Italia (00 39 040 760 0011; www.magesta.com), and its parquet floors and antique mirrors are as highly polished as the service from its staff. Breakfast can be taken in the sun-drenched restaurant looking out on to the piazza. Doubles from €275 (£229), including breakfast.

In a quiet street in the old town, five minutes' walk from the seafront, is the Albergo Nascota (4), a "hotel residence" at Via Felice Venezian 18 (00 39 040 300 188; www.alberonascosto.it). Its old-world peach-coloured façade melds with its more contemporary interior makeover – most rooms have kitchenettes for self-catering. Doubles from €125 (£104), including breakfast.

The Ostello Tergeste, at Via Miramare 331 (00 39 040 224102; www.ostellionline. org), is a cheap hostel in a rambling late 19th-century building 4km north-west of the centre. Reach it on bus 36 from beside Trieste's train station (5), on Viale Miramare. A dormitory bed is just €16 (£19) per night, including breakfast. Guests also benefit from its free beach and close proximity to Castello Miramare, just 100m away.

TAKE A HIKE

Set off skyward from Piazza Goldoni (6), climbing the 252 stone steps that rise on three levels either side of the towering stone tunnel on Via San Pellico, and turn around for a lofty view of Trieste. Wander Parco della Rimembranza's cobbled pathways lined with pines before heading along the Via Grossi, with the towering ivy-clad walls of Castello San Giusto (7) to your right. Turn right into Via San Giusto to reach the remains of a Roman Forum (8) on your right, with the Cathedral (9) to your left.

Opposite its west door, descend Via della Catthedrale opposite a wide, steep street covered with long sandstone cobbles. As you continue down, spot the Lapidario Triestino (10) – a Roman stone garden enclosed behind huge iron gates on the left. Carry on to the Civico Museo di Storia ed Arte (11) (00 39 040 308 686), with its archaeological finds. The museum opens 9am-1pm daily except Mondays (Weds to 7pm), admission €2 (£1.60).

Fifty metres further down, enter the Giardino San Michele (open 8am-6pm daily), with its belvedere that is perfectly placed for scanning Trieste's higgledy-piggledy skyline of coloured roof tiles. Veer to the right from the base of Via San Giusto (12) into Via San Cipriano, where, after a few minutes, you are surrounded by tall but narrow apricot-coloured 16th-century houses nudging one another on either side of the road. An iron handrail assists with the vertical challenge.

LUNCH ON THE RUN

Peckish? Pick up a delicious panino porco (hot pork roll) at Da Pepi (13), at Via Cassa di Risparmio 3 (00 39 040 366 858) for €2.60 (£2.15), a tightly packed popular eatery. Enjoy with a piccolo Dreher beer at €1.80 (£1.50, either standing at a tall table or to take away.

CULTURAL AFTERNOON

A short walk from the waterfront is the Museo Revoltella (14), at 27 Via Diaz (00 39 040 675 4350; www.museorevoltella.it), housed in the prestigious 19th-century residence of Baron Revoltella, and incorporating the Gallery of Italian Modern Art. Designed by the great Italian architect Scarpa, the galleries display collections of figurative art from the neoclassical period to the present day. Open 10am-7pm daily except Tuesday; admission €6 (£5).

AN APERITIF

Join the Triestino smart set at Urbanis (15), at Via del Teatro 4c (00 39 040 366580), either sipping a prosecco from the nearby vineyards of the Carso countryside for €4 (£3), or sampling another less well-known regional aperitif, the non-alcoholic Gingerino, for €3 (£2.50). Drinks come with a small platter of rebechin (traditional snacks), served at tables that spill out on to the street, or inside, under the faded fresco on the stone-vaulted ceiling. Open 7am-midnight.

Dining with the locals

Run by the Braico family for over 40 years, Nastro Azzurro Trieste (16), at Riva Nazario Sauro 12 (00 39 040 305789) is well lit and has a simple decor. The only background music is the contented chatter of diners. Enjoy a risotto alla marinara con scampi e vongole for €12 (£10), with a bottle of local dry white wine – Ribolla Gialla – for €20 (£17). Open noon-3.30pm and 7.30-10pm daily.

SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH

On top of San Giusto hill sits its namesake cathedral (9) (00 39 040 309666), constructed between the ninth and 12th century. It replaced a fifth-century basilica, of which all that remains are pieces of floor mosaic in the cathedral floor. The pillars of the main doorway are made up from a Roman burial monument, and a stone figure of San Giusto, the patron saint of Trieste, stands in an aedicule on the bell tower, from which the famous bronze campanon (big bell) rings. Inside are three apses adorned with sparkling mosaics, the oldest in the left- hand apse created by Byzantine masters in the 12th century. Open 7.30-noon and 2.30-7.30pm daily.

OUT TO BRUNCH

Viennese coffee houses still dominate the streets of Trieste, the oldest, dating from 1830, being the seafront Caffe Tommaseo (17) at 4c Piazza Tommaseo (00 39 040 362666; www.caffetommaseo.com), an ideal place to idle away a few hours over a feast of panino, formaggio, prosciutto, juice and honey or jam for €9.50 (£11.50). The elegant interior retains the classical Viennese style. Open 8am-midnight.

WINDOW SHOPPING

On the third Sunday of each month you can trawl the stalls of the antique and flea market held south- east of Piazza de Unita d'Italia. The streets directly to the east of the piazza – Via Mazzini and Via San Nicolo – are lined with elegant 18th-century buildings, the ground floors of which are boutiques selling global fashion brands. Trieste is also well known for the string of antique shops and art galleries that line Via Cadorna and decorate the narrow, winding streets of the old Jewish quarter.

TAKE A RIDE

Board the Tram di Opicina in Piazza Oberdan (18) to travel the steep ride across the Carso uplands to the town of Opicina, with marvellous views across the city and the gulf below. In operation since 1902, this 5km-long narrow-gauge line has a funicular section in the middle to help it along its vertiginous 25-minute ascent.

A WALK IN THE PARk

Four kilometres north-west of the centre, perched on a promontory, is Castello di Miramare, at Via Miramare (00 39 040 224143; www. castello-miramare.it). It was built in 1860 by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian as a love-castle for his wife. The pretty park surrounding it rises steeply above the sea and comprises an Italian ornamental garden with statuary, formal lawns and a belvedere. Wander through the pergola flanked with palms to a woodland area, home to an exotic variety of trees, including giant sequoia and ginkgo biloba. Admission €4 (£3.30), or free with FVG card. Gardens open 8am-7pm, April-September.

ICING ON THE CAKE

The pretty and peaceful fishing village of Muggia is accessible by ferry from Molo Bersaglieri (19). After wandering around Muggia's narrow streets, you can admire the many boats anchored in the harbour. Ferries leave every hour, morning and afternoon, €6.05 (£5) return.

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