Grand tours: Paul Bowles travels back in time in Morocco

Sex, drugs, fantasies and the machinery of derangement" – the preoccupations of the writer Paul Bowles are well known, as is his connection to Morocco and the Sahara. Indeed, Bowles is to north Africa what Byron was to Greece: he lived in Tangier for most of his life, having moved there after the war in 1931, and it remained his permanent home until his death in 1999. Chiefly renowned for his first novel, 'The Sheltering Sky', Bowles also wrote three other novels and several travel books, including 'Points in Time', from which this extract is taken. It is a collection of stories spanning 24 centuries of Moroccan life, about which Anthony Burgess, with his usual ability to get straight to the point, wrote: "Whether he describes a sunset or a decapitation, Bowles evades all categorisation."

Sex, drugs, fantasies and the machinery of derangement" – the preoccupations of the writer Paul Bowles are well known, as is his connection to Morocco and the Sahara. Indeed, Bowles is to north Africa what Byron was to Greece: he lived in Tangier for most of his life, having moved there after the war in 1931, and it remained his permanent home until his death in 1999. Chiefly renowned for his first novel, 'The Sheltering Sky', Bowles also wrote three other novels and several travel books, including 'Points in Time', from which this extract is taken. It is a collection of stories spanning 24 centuries of Moroccan life, about which Anthony Burgess, with his usual ability to get straight to the point, wrote: "Whether he describes a sunset or a decapitation, Bowles evades all categorisation."

The sound of the sea on the wind blowing through the streets of Essaouira today is the same as it was two hundred years ago, when Andrew Layton had a small exporting business there, together with two Frenchmen, Messieurs Secard and Barre. The three men often set out on their horses into the country-side roundabout, Layton's greyhounds accompanying them.

One day the three went out of the town on their horses. To escape the wind they rode inland, rather than skirting the dunes to the south. Their route led them past several small Chleuh villages.

They passed a hamlet where men and women were working in the fields, while cows grazed nearby. The greyhounds rushed on to the scene and made a concerted attack upon the cattle. As a calf fell, a farmer in the field raised his gun and shot one of the dogs.

The Europeans had seen. They rode up and dismounted, but before they had even begun to speak, the field-workers were hurling stones at them. A general melee ensued, in the course of which Layton and his associates made free use of their riding-whips. Then they turned and galloped back to Essaouira in a state of high indignation. The occurrence was unusual, and by their standards, outrageous. They went immediately to see the Pacha.

To appease the Europeans, with whom he was on friendly terms, the Pacha first advised them henceforth to ride southward along the beach, notwithstanding the wind, rather than going inland past the villages. Then he agreed to call in the offending farmers. The following day a large group of them appeared in the town and straightaway began a frenzied clamour for retribution. A village woman was missing two teeth, which she insisted that Layton had broken.

Perplexed by the turn events had taken, the Pacha decided to refer the matter to the Sultan. In due course a reply came from His Majesty, ordering all the parties concerned to report to the palace at Marrakech.

At the hearing, which took place in the presence of the Sultan, Layton admitted that he had struck the woman in the face with his whip, breaking two of her incisors. He offered to make monetary payment, but the villagers were adamant in their refusal. They demanded precise retaliation: Layton must furnish them with two of his own teeth. Nothing else was acceptable.

Since the peasants were within their rights, the Sultan had no choice but to order the extractions to be performed. The official tooth-puller stepped forward, ready to start. Layton, although disconcerted, had the presence of mind to ask that the teeth to be pulled be two molars which recently had been giving him trouble. The complainants agreed to the suggestion. Back teeth being larger and heavier than front teeth, they felt that they were getting the better of the bargain.

The operation went ahead under the intent scrutiny of the villagers. They were waiting to hear the infidel's cries of pain. Layton, however, preserved a stoical silence throughout the ordeal. The molars were washed and presented to the claimants, who went away satisfied. The Sultan had watched the proceedings with interest and, on the following day, he expressed his admiration for the Englishman's fortitude. He could scarcely do less, he said, than agree to grant whatever favour his guest might ask of him.

Layton replied that he desired only that the permit to export a cargo of wheat from Essaouira be expedited. His modesty impelled the monarch to take a personal interest in him, and the two became friends.

It was the Emperor's hope that Layton might eventually be persuaded to accept the post of British Consul in Marrakech. There at least, he argued, he would not have to contend with the wind. But the prospect did not appeal to Layton, who preferred to continue his life at Essaouira with his horses and dogs. He had got used to the wind, he said.

'Points in Time' is published in paperback by Peter Owen, price £7.95. 'Independent on Sunday' readers can order 'Points in Time' for £7 including postage (UK only; elsewhere add £1 p&p) from The Sales Office, Peter Owen Ltd, 73 Kenway Road, London SW5 0RE (020-7373 5628; fax: 020-7373 6760; e-mail: sales@peterowen.com).

Follow in the footsteps

War-worn and battletorn

Essaouira is a hybrid of styles, with a range of Portuguese, French and Berber military architecture that stands as a legacy to its chequered history. Since the seventh century BC it has housed Phoenicians, Romans, French, indigenous North Africans (Berbers) and Portuguese.

In 1765, the local ruler, Sultan Sidi Mohammed bin Abdallah, captured a French vessel and hired one of its passengers – French architect Théodore Cournut – to redesign the city. Then known as Mogador, the Sultan wanted the city to be suitable for foreign traders, while deterring marauders with the construction of walls and mounting of cannons between battlements. Mogador was renamed Essaouira, meaning "the little ramparts".

Into the mountains

Paul Bowles's protagonist, Andrew Layton, rides inland towards the High Atlas, passing several Chleuh villages – Chleuh is one of the three main Berber languages spoken.

Travel Bag Adventures (01420 541007; www.travelbag-adventures.com) offers a two-week trek in this area for £669 per person, including flights, accommodation and some meals. The next trek departs on 20 July.

Ride like the wind

The Emperor cautions Layton about the strength of the wind in Essaouira, yet these days it is one of its greatest attractions. The promotional slogan "Windy city, Afrika" brings windsurfers flocking to its coastline between March and September when the number of days of Force 4 winds are at their highest.

Ocean Vagabond Fanatic Board Centre, which you can find in the heart of Essaouira beach, offers a 10-hour beginners' windsurfing course for £99. Those who have already learnt the skill can hire a board for the week from £119.

The wind discourages sunbathing, which leaves the beach free for football matches, a favourite activity here. This, combined with the scarcity of large hotel complexes, nearly makes Essaouira a package holiday-free destination.

However, Best of Morocco (01380 828533; www. realmorocco.com) is offering four nights in Marrakesh for £533 per person in July, based on two sharing, including return flights and four nights' b&b at the ornate Villa Maroc .

If you prefer to make your own arrangements, return flights in high season start from £348 return with GB Airways (0845 77 333 77; www.britishairways.com) and from £349 with Royal Air Maroc (020-7439 4361; www.royalairmaroc.com). From Marrakesh, share a taxi for the three-hour drive to Essaouira, which should cost around £5.

Visit www.i-escape.com to find out more suggestions for hotels and guesthouses.

Polly Morgan

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