Plate With A View: Le Marrakchi Marrakesh, Morocco

On your first night in Marrakesh, it's essential to eat overlooking Jemaa El Fna, the busiest, noisiest square in North Africa. And Le Marrakchi is the place to go. On two floors in the north-east corner of the square, Le Marrakchi is dominated by traditional Moroccan mosaics on the first floor and panoramic windows on the second.

Discreetly lit and furnished with low, comfortable chairs, wooden shutters and lots of candles, the restaurant offers two set menus: the Marrakchi (Dh250/£15) and the Medina (Dh350/£21) and some fine local wines.

Both menus feature pastilla (meat wrapped in filo pastry sprinkled with cinnamon), clay-baked lamb tagine and the ubiquitous couscous. A nine-course Moroccan salad is a healthy starter and the Guerrouane rosé (Dh120) is an excellent accompaniment.

The music is techno-Berber and the staff dress all in black like stagehands - which is apt, given the street theatre going on below.

THE VIEW

Jemaa El Fna is an apocalyptic vision: white smoke from scores of fast-food stalls drifting across the square as snake charmers, drummers and vendors rend the air with their cries. Among the mêlée, storytellers and henna artists accost the crowds, while above it all rise stately mosques whose towers obey the Almobad proportions, standing five times as high as they are wide. In the distance you will see the 16th-century ramparts of Marrakesh, which run 12 miles around the city, and the roof of the La Mamounia, one of the best Art Deco hotels in the world, which in its time has hosted Winston Churchill, Richard Nixon and Orson Welles.

THE BILL

Prices are average for a tourist restaurant in Marrakesh. A two-course set meal of Dh250 for two people, plus wine, water and tip, should come to Dh700 (£43).

Open every day from midday to 1am. Dinner from 7.30pm. Book ahead at weekends.

Le Marrakchi, 52 Rue des banques, Marrakesh (00 212 44 44 33 777, www.lemarrakchi.com).

Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Travel
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
SPONSORED FEATURES
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Guru Careers: Product Manager / Product Marketing Manager / Product Owner

    COMPETITIVE: Guru Careers: A Product Manager / Product Owner is required to jo...

    Guru Careers: Carpenter / Maintenance Operator

    £25k plus Benefits: Guru Careers: A Carpenter and Maintenance Operator is need...

    Recruitment Genius: Visitor Experience Coordinator

    £17600 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This museum cares for one of the largest...

    Recruitment Genius: Experienced PSV Coach & Minibus Drivers

    £12500 - £24500 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Drivers wanted for a family run...

    Day In a Page

    A Very British Coup, part two: New novel in pipeline as Jeremy Corbyn's rise inspires sequel

    A Very British Coup, part two

    New novel in pipeline as Jeremy Corbyn's rise inspires sequel
    Philae lander data show comets could have brought 'building blocks of life' to Earth

    Philae lander data show comets could have brought 'building blocks of life' to Earth

    Icy dust layer holds organic compounds similar to those found in living organisms
    What turns someone into a conspiracy theorist? Study to look at why some are more 'receptive' to such theories

    What turns someone into a conspiracy theorist?

    Study to look at why some are more 'receptive' to such theories
    Chinese web dissenters using coded language to dodge censorship filters and vent frustration at government

    Are you a 50-center?

    Decoding the Chinese web dissenters
    The Beatles film Help, released 50 years ago, signalled the birth of the 'metrosexual' man

    Help signalled birth of 'metrosexual' man

    The Beatles' moptop haircuts and dandified fashion introduced a new style for the modern Englishman, says Martin King
    Hollywood's new diet: Has LA stolen New York's crown as the ultimate foodie trend-setter?

    Hollywood's new diet trends

    Has LA stolen New York's crown as the ultimate foodie trend-setter?
    6 best recipe files

    6 best recipe files

    Get organised like a Bake Off champion and put all your show-stopping recipes in one place
    Ashes 2015: Steven Finn goes from being unselectable to simply unplayable

    Finn goes from being unselectable to simply unplayable

    Middlesex bowler claims Ashes hat-trick of Clarke, Voges and Marsh
    Mullah Omar, creator of the Taliban, is dead... for the fourth time

    Mullah Omar, creator of the Taliban, is dead... again

    I was once told that intelligence services declare their enemies dead to provoke them into popping up their heads and revealing their location, says Robert Fisk
    Margaret Attwood on climate change: 'Time is running out for our fragile, Goldilocks planet'

    Margaret Atwood on climate change

    The author looks back on what she wrote about oil in 2009, and reflects on how the conversation has changed in a mere six years
    New Dr Seuss manuscript discovered: What Pet Should I Get? goes on sale this week

    New Dr Seuss manuscript discovered

    What Pet Should I Get? goes on sale this week
    Oculus Rift and the lonely cartoon hedgehog who could become the first ever virtual reality movie star

    The cartoon hedgehog leading the way into a whole new reality

    Virtual reality is the 'next chapter' of entertainment. Tim Walker gives it a try
    Ants have unique ability to switch between individual and collective action, says study

    Secrets of ants' teamwork revealed

    The insects have an almost unique ability to switch between individual and collective action
    Donovan interview: The singer is releasing a greatest hits album to mark his 50th year in folk

    Donovan marks his 50th year in folk

    The singer tells Nick Duerden about receiving death threats, why the world is 'mentally ill', and how he can write a song about anything, from ecology to crumpets
    Let's Race simulator: Ultra-realistic technology recreates thrill of the Formula One circuit

    Simulator recreates thrill of F1 circuit

    Rory Buckeridge gets behind the wheel and explains how it works