48 hours in Jewish New York

New York's oldest traditional Jewish neighbourhoods on the Lower East Side of Manhattan are changing rapidly. See these richly historical areas soon. The powerful and controversial exhibition at the city's Jewish Museum, "Mirroring Evil", runs until 30 June. The New York weather in late spring is usually much more pleasant than its hot and humid summer, and flight and bed prices are lower.

Why go now?

New York's oldest traditional Jewish neighbourhoods on the Lower East Side of Manhattan are changing rapidly. See these richly historical areas soon. The powerful and controversial exhibition at the city's Jewish Museum, "Mirroring Evil", runs until 30 June. The New York weather in late spring is usually much more pleasant than its hot and humid summer, and flight and bed prices are lower.

Check in

Only the most Orthodox of Jews would choose not to stay in a particular hotel for religious reasons – consequently there's only one true Jewish hotel in New York – the Avenue Plaza (4624 13th Avenue, Brooklyn: 001 718 552 3200 www.theavenueplaza.com). It's very comfortable and located on 13th Avenue near the 50th Street subway station) in the very heart of Brooklyn's fascinating Borough Park neighbourhood – the largest Orthodox Jewish community outside Israel. Rates (from $160/£118) include a huge buffet breakfast during the week (but just coffee and cake on Saturdays).

Beam down

Heathrow-New York JFK is the busiest and most competitive international air route in the world, with Virgin Atlantic and Kuwait Airways offering good deals for this month and next. A taxi from JFK will cost $42 (£31, plus tip) to anywhere in Manhattan. Or take the free shuttle bus to Howard Beach subway station, then the subway (A line) to Manhattan ($1.50/£1.10). More details: www.panynj.gov.

Get your bearings

Jewish communities are dotted all over New York (such as Manhattan's Upper East and West Sides and Brooklyn's Williamsburg and Crown Heights). But the most interesting areas for the visitor are the Lower East Side in Manhattan and Borough Park in Brooklyn. Much of the city can be seen on foot: otherwise subway and bus journeys are $1.50 (£1.10) each. A One Day Metro Fun Pass valid for both buses and subways costs just $4 (£2.95) (www.mta.info). The city's official Visitor Centre is at 810 7th Avenue between 52nd and 53rd streets.

A walk in the park

So many Jewish refugees came from Germany and settled in what is now the Fort George area of north-west Manhattan that the neighbourhood became known as "Frankfurt on the Hudson". The immigrants used to walk in Fort Tryon Park which overlooks the Hudson and the surprisingly wooded slopes of New Jersey. It is now the location of the wonderful medieval art collection of the Cloisters Museum. Take the A train to 190th Street.

Lunch on the run

Like almost all the Jewish food offered in New York, the bagel originated in Eastern Europe. Try Ess-a-Bagel (831 3rd Avenue between 50 and 51st St, or 359 1st Avenue at 21st Street). Russ & Daughters (179 E Houston Street between Orchard and Allen St, 001 212 475 4880) has been thriving since 1914, and you can look at fascinating old photos as you wait for their cream cheese and lox (smoked salmon) bagel to go: not the cheapest but the best in town, and open every day 9am-6pm.

Take a ride

Take the subway (M or W lines) to 50th Street in Brooklyn's Borough Park. Walk along 48th Street to 13th Avenue, the main artery through a huge, modern lively Orthodox Jewish community. Don't bother going on Jewish holidays or between Friday afternoon and Saturday evening (the Sabbath) when everything will be closed and the streets will be empty. A major tourist attraction is Ellis Island (www.ellisisland.com); from 1892 to 1954 it was the gateway to America for 12 million immigrants. Ferries (£5.90 round trip, www.statueoflibertyferry.com) leave frequently from South Ferry at Battery Park. Entry to the Museum of Immigration (9.30am-5.30pm daily, 001 212 363 3200) is free.

Window shopping

West 47th Street between 5th and 6th Ave is known as Diamond Row: Jewish diamond-cutters and sellers flocked here from Amsterdam, Brussels and Antwerp in the 1930s. Though no longer exclusively Jewish, the place is still buzzing with traditionally dressed Orthodox Jews hurrying between the diamond shops. The area's definitely worth a look whether or not you're in the market for gems. Make sure you visit Monday-Thursday, or Friday mornings only.

Take a hike

Despite the changes and building work, the Lower East Side is a wonderful area to wander around. Meander through the grid of streets of the area bordered by East Houston Street to the north, the Bowery to the west, Division Street to the south and Clinton Street to the east. The local Visitor Center is at 261 Broome Street (between Orchard and Allen St, daily 10am-4pm). You'll see that this area, once almost exclusively Jewish, is now multicultural: Chinese, Puerto Rican and Asian influences are strong. Have a look at Yonah Schimmel's Knishery(a knish is a type of Jewish potato cake) at 137 E Houston Street between 1st and 2nd Ave, or try a bialy (a flat bread with onions) at Kossar's, 367 Grand Street (by Essex Street). See the queues on Sunday mornings as people line up to buy pickled cucumbers from huge plastic barrels at Guss's (temporarily located at 97 Essex Street between Broome and Delancey Streets).

An aperitif

The Lansky Lounge (104 Norfolk Street between Delancey and Rivington Street, 001 212 677 9489, from 6pm until late) is designed like a speakeasy: you enter via a basement staircase and dark passageway. It's named after Meyer Lansky, New York's most notorious Jewish gangster. Almost directly across the road, try the bar downstairs at Jewish-owned Tonic, a former brewery.

Dinner with the locals

Amnon Kosher Pizza (4814 13th Avenue, Brooklyn) has good, cheap pizza, falafel and houmous. Among the top Jewish diners in Manhattan are the Carnegie Deli (854 7th Avenue at 55th Street) and the Second Avenue Deli (156 2nd Avenue at 10th Street). At Famous Sammy's Roumanian (157 Chrystie Street at Delancey),the steaks are huge and it's like being a guest at a wild Jewish wedding.

Sunday morning: visit a synagogue

At the Temple Emanu-El (5th Avenue at 65th Street), the largest synagogue in the world, tours are given Sunday-Friday (001 212 744 1400, www.emanuelnyc.org for details). . In Harlem, the oldest African-American synagogue in the West is the Commandment Keepers Ethiopian Hebrew Congregation (1 W123 Street by Marcus Garvey Memorial Park, 001 212 427 5026).

Bracing brunch

Expect to queue on Sundays for Barney Greengrass – The Sturgeon King, a legendary Jewish deli at 541 Amsterdam Avenue between 86th and 87th Streets, open daily except Mondays from 8.30am. The egg platters with smoked salmon are vast. Wash it down with a glass of cold borscht (beetroot soup). At Tonic (107 Norfolk Street between Delancey and Rivington, there is a Klezmer (a kind of Jewish jazz-folk music) Sunday brunch: admission is $10 (£7.40).

Cultural afternoon

The Jewish Museum (1) is at 1109 5th Avenue at 92nd Street (001 212 423 3200, www.thejewishmuseum.org). For an insight into early immigrant life in New York, visit the Lower East Side Tenement Museum (90 Orchard Street at Broome Street, 001 212 431 0233, www.tenement.org).

Icing on the cake

To preserve the heritage of a people who have contributed so much to this great city, the Eldridge Street Project (12 Eldridge Street, just south of Canal Street, 001 212 978 8800, www.eldridgestreet.org) is working to restore the first great house of worship in the US to be built by Eastern European Jews. Guided tours ($5/£3.70) are on Sundays (11am-4pm), Tues and Thurs at 11.30am and 2.30pm.