48 Hours in: Quebec City

WHY GO NOW?

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WHY GO NOW?

Because the first non-stop flights from Britain to the capital of Canada's Francophone province are soon to begin. The 17th- and 18th-century architecture, combined with the dramatic terrain, makes this one of the most unusual and attractive cities in North America.

TOUCH DOWN

Direct flights from the UK, operated by Thomas Cook Airlines, depart each Wednesday from 22 June to 7 September; book through Canadian Affair (020-7616 9184; www.canadianaffair.com). There are currently no shuttle services running from the airport to the city centre - about 20 minutes away - so you will need to take a taxi; they operate on a set rate of C$27 (£11.50) plus a tip.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

Quebec City lies on the St Lawrence river, once a passage for explorers and traders to the New World. The city is divided into Upper and Lower Towns. Most tourist attractions are in the Upper Town. This itself comprises two parts: historic Old Quebec - a Unesco World Heritage Site - which lies inside the city walls, and the more modern area outside the walls. Quebec City's main tourist office (1) is at 835 avenue Wilfrid Laurier (001 418 641 6290; www.tourisme.gouv.qc.ca).

CHECK IN

The immense Fairmont Le Château Frontenac (2) at 1 rue des Carrières (001 418 692 3861; www.fairmont.com) is Quebec City's best-known hotel. Under its fairy-tale copper roofs, a standard double starts at C$249 (£105) this month and next, rising to C$349 (£146) between June and September. The three-star Relais Charles-Alexandre (3) is a quaint little hotel with an art gallery, at 91 Grande-Allée Est (001 418 523 1220; www.quebecweb.com/rca/introang.html). Doubles here cost from C$105 (£45) in low season. There is an excellent youth hostel in the popular Centre International de Séjour de Québec (4) at 19 rue Ste-Ursule (001 418 694 0755; www.cisq.org) in the Old Town, where beds in a dormitory cost from C$27.20 (£11.50).

TAKE A VIEW

At 221m above sea level, the Observatory (5) at the top of the Marie-Guyart Building at 1037 rue de la Chevrotière (001 418 644 9841; www.observatoirecapitale.org) is the best way to get an all-encompassing view of the city. It opens 10am-5pm daily (except Mondays from October to June); admission C$5 (£2).

TAKE A HIKE

Start where it all began for Quebec in the Place Royale, an area of narrow streets and restored buildings that is said to be the birthplace of French civilisation in North America. Wander up to picturesque rue du Petit-Champlain, turning right to climb the Breakneck Staircase (6), or take the funicular from 16 rue du Petit-Champlain (7) to Terrasse Dufferin (8), which costs C$1.50 (65p). From the Château Frontenac (2), amble down rue du Trésor, an alleyway crammed with artists displaying their wares. Turn left on to rue De Buade, passing the Notre Dame de Québec basilica (9), then right on to côte de la Fabrique. Walk down to rue St-Jean, and stroll past the shops as far as Porte St-Jean (10) - one of the city's four gates - to climb on to the walls. Walk towards the Porte St-Louis (11), where you can descend and head along rue St-Louis to a triumphant end and a tea with a view at Château Frontenac.

WINDOW SHOPPING

The Quartier Petit-Champlain (www.quartierpetitchamplain.com) is full of boutiques selling goods made locally.

LUNCH ON THE RUN

Try what Quebeckers call their "national dish": poutine, a fatty mix of chips, gravy and squeaky (unripened) cheese curds. The fast-food chain Ashton is a good place to find it. The most convenient outlet is on 54 Côte du Palais off rue St-Jean (001 418 692 3055) (12). For more refined palates, Au Petit Coin Breton (13) at 1029 rue St-Jean (001 418 694 0758) is a safer bet. You'll get enormous pancakes for under £5.

AN APERITIF

Beer fans will be happy to hear that the city has many microbreweries; try L'Inox (14) at 37 Quai Saint-André in the Old Port (001 418 692 2877; www.inox.qc.ca). For something more chic, try cocktails at the revolving L'Astral restaurant at the top of the Loews Le Concorde hotel (15) at 1225 Cours du General-de-Montcalm (001 418 647 2222; www.loewshotels.com/hotels/quebec). A martini is a very reasonable C$8 (£3.40).

DINING WITH THE LOCALS

Quebec City makes the remarkable claim that it has more restaurants per capita than any other city in North America, so you are spoiled for choice. Aux Anciens Canadiens (16) at 34 rue St-Louis (001 418 692 1627; www.auxancienscanadiens.qc.ca) serves traditional, meaty French-Canadian fare such as buffalo and caribou. A set dinner starts from C$35 (£15). The trendier, non-smoking 47ième Parallèle (17), at 333 rue St-Amable (001 418 692 4747; www.le47.com), takes its name from the line of latitude that divides Canada from the US. Expect to find tasty, imaginative dishes at reasonable prices; the table d'hôte costs, on average, C$33 (£14). Le Cochon Dingue (18) at 46 boulevard Champlain (001 418 692 2013; .cochondingue.com) is part of a chain, and deservedly popular. Most mains cost around C$13.50 (£5.60).

SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH

The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (19) at 31 rue des Jardins (001 418 692 2193; www.quebec.cathedral.ca) in the Old Town was the first Anglican cathedral sanctioned for construction outside the British Isles. It opens 10am-4pm daily, and admission is free.

OUT TO BRUNCH

The chic Café du Monde (001 418 692 4455; www.lecafedumonde.com) is located inside the Cruise Line Terminal (20) at 84 rue Dalhousie in the Old Port. It overlooks the St Lawrence, yet prices are lower than you'd expect: brunch should cost about C$14 (£6).

TAKE A RIDE

For a fresh perspective on the city, take the ferry across the St Lawrence and back. The 10-minute ride leaves every 30 minutes throughout the day from 109 rue Dalhousie (21) to the town of Lévis on the opposite bank. The return voyage costs C$4 (£1.70) in low season, and C$5 (£2.10) in high season.

CULTURAL AFTERNOON

Top of your list should be the Musée de la Civilisation (22) at 85 rue Dalhousie in the Old Port (001 418 643 2158; www.mcq.org). Until 23 June and from 7 September onwards it opens from 10am-5pm daily except Monday; in summer it opens 9.30am-6.30pm daily; admission C$8 (£3.50), but it is free on Tuesdays between 1 November and 31 May. The museum has interactive exhibitions on Quebec and its diverse cultural heritage.

WRITE A POSTCARD

Stray outside the city walls to Café Krieghoff (23) at 1091 avenue Cartier to put pen to card. The café is filled with locals, maybe because the coffee is so good.

THE ICING ON THE CAKE

Visit the city's performing arts theatre, Grand Théâtre de Quebec (24) at 269 boulevard René-Lévesque East (001 418 643 8131; www.billetech.com). Inside, the theatre's mural on the theme of death, life and liberty, designed by the Spanish artist Jordi Bonet, is exquisite.

Additional research by Rebecca Cafe

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