A gentle triathlon in Canada

KAYAKING IN NOVA SCOTIA

Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, is bidding for the 2014 Commonwealth Games. So it seemed an appropriate gateway for a holiday designed to test, stretch - and reward - our bodies and minds. The aircraft's descent allowed glimpses of Nova Scotia's 7,400km of coastline, some of which we would be exploring in great detail in the days to come. Once on the ground, we drove south and west past a seemingly endless dense forest and small lakes to the South Shore, and specifically the town of Lunenburg. Designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1995, Lunenburg's Old Town was founded in 1753. It consists of several blocks of very well conserved and restored colonial buildings, many of which now operate as inns, restaurants, and shops. After meeting our fellow-kayakers and leaving our bags at a charming B&B, we went out for dinner, managing to squeeze in to the tiny Magnolia's Grill for a fine repast.

Next morning, after some perfunctory instructions, we were assigned kayaks; we managed to get in ours looking clumsy but not stupid. Once under way it didn't take at all long to master a basic technique and rhythm, and be able to relax enough to enjoy the gorgeous coastal scenery. We passed the beautiful fishing villages of Blue Rocks and Stonehurst and a seal colony before returning to Lunenburg, having paddled about 7km.

Next day, we kayaked almost three times as far, to the lovely town of Mahone Bay. Paddling past the tiny rocky coves and strings of beautiful forested - mostly uninhabited - islands proved incredibly relaxing. After that, we were divided into two groups: ours paddled around 20km each day, while those who chose the more relaxed group averaged about 10km per day. In addition to the seals seen on day one, we spotted an array of birdlife including herons, cormorants and osprey. Our end point was Chester, a pretty "yachties" village, reminiscent of (though less crowded than) New England coastal towns.

HIKING IN NEW BRUNSWICK

Next stop was the province of New Brunswick (NB), across the Bay of Fundy from Nova Scotia. The Bay of Fundy has the highest tides in the world: twice every day, 100 billion tonnes of seawater, equivalent to the daily flow of all the world's rivers, flows and ebbs along the Bay of Fundy's shores, resulting in a rise and fall of water roughly the height of a four-storey building.

The land is full of surprises, too. Roughly rectangular in shape, NB's northern reaches are dominated by mountains in the Appalachian Range, many of which make good day-hikes. In fact, the highest mountain in the Maritime provinces, at 820m, is NB's Mount Carleton. It is situated in the north-west corner of the province, and is on the 1,045km International Appalachian Trail which originates across the US border in Maine and crosses the province en route to Quebec.

Keen hikers who are prepared to carry food and camping gear for three or four days would probably choose the 41km Fundy Footpath which takes you along one of the last remaining coastal wilderness areas between Florida and Labrador.

Being the kind of triathletes who enjoy exercise during the day but "home" comforts at night, we started off with a couple of nights in the coastal village of St Martins, and walked the Fundy Trail Parkway (www.fundytrailparkway.com). We then moved on to Alma, a fishing village on the coast just to the east of the Fundy National Park (00 1 506 887 6000; www.pc.gc.ca) and spent a couple of days hiking some of the Park's 100km of trails, including the short Caribou Plain and the Third Vault Falls Trail.

In addition to wonderful coastal scenery, we walked through lush conifer forests, alongside fast-flowing streams and across mossy valleys. Returning to our accommodation each evening was great, too - the views from Alma's three-room Cliffside Suites (00 1 506 887 1022; www.cliffsidesuites.com) were spectacular.

CYCLING ON PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

From NB, you have to drive over the sea to reach Prince Edward Island (PEI): this is made easier by the Confederation Bridge, at 12.9km Canada's longest, which celebrates its 10th birthday this summer.

Immortalised in Lucy Maud Montgomery's books about Anne of Green Gables, PEI is Canada's smallest province. Nowhere on PEI is more than 16km from the sea. Having heard that the island's gently rolling terrain was ideal for cycling holidays, we were to swap four wheels for two.

Needing good local knowledge, we had contacted Outside Expeditions (00 1 902 963 3366; www.getoutside.com) which sells sets of route notes and maps for three- or four-day cycling trips taking in the North Shore and Eastern PEI for C$20 (£9); longer itineraries taking in Central PEI, the North Shore and the Southeastern Shore go for C$25 (£11). These itineraries average 50 km per day, and the notes include suggested places to stay and eat, local attractions and points of interest, and full-colour maps. Helpfully, the company also rents bikes for C$105 (£47) per week including helmet, water bottle and lock.

We found that the quiet rural roads and coastal routes allow access to scenic farm communities, picturesque fishing villages, forested glades atop red sandstone cliffs and lovely quiet beaches. Shoulders and arms had long since recovered from the kayaking, but legs and rear ends were protesting a bit as we completed our triathlon. Any discomfort was soon forgotten as we reflected on the dark red earth and lush green pasture blanketed with vibrant wildflowers with the brilliant blue sea as a backdrop: that, far more than Green Gables or even Lobster Suppers, is quintessential PEI.

TRAVELLER'S GUIDE

GETTING AROUND

There is a land crossing between Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, but taking the ferry (00 1 888 249 7245; www.nfl-bay.com) from Digby (NS) to St John (NB) is more fun, may save you a lot of driving and allows you to see NS's lovely Annapolis Valley. The ferry runs one to three times daily depending on the season. To return to Nova Scotia from PEI, take the ferry between Wood Islands, PEI, and Caribou (near Pictou) NS. Ferries run three to nine times daily.

EXPLORING

Freewheeling Adventures (001 902 857 3600, www.freewheeling.ca) offers departures for inn-based kayaking trips between late June and mid-September, for between four and seven days. The five-day trip costs C$1,395 (£620) including four days' kayaking, four nights' inn accommodation with breakfast, lunches and one dinner.

East Coast Outfitters (001 902 852 2567, www.eastcoastoutfitters.net) offers half-day (from C$71 (£32) and full-day sea kayaking escapes daily in season, and will advise on and arrange customised multi-day kayaking trips for you with nights spent camping or at B&Bs

On PEI, MacQueen's Island Tours (00 1 902 368 2453, www.macqueens.com) offers six- and eight-day supported independent tours of the island between May and October. The six-day trip costs C$1,025 (£460) including bike hire and accommodation in inns and B&Bs.

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