Bajan beauty: the Winner-free Barbados

Mention that you're going to Barbados, and people who know the Caribbean generally say one of two things: "Aren't you afraid of running into Michael Winner?" Or: "Isn't it really boring?" I've just spent a pleasant week discovering the Winner-free part of Barbados, with empty beaches, deserted roads and great walking. I admit, I once spent half a day in Barbados between flights a few years ago and my first impression was of a sort of Isle of Wight in the sun, full of middle-class Brits and a coastal strip dominated by luxury hotels. In fact, the visitors seemed to outnumber the locals. This time I was persuaded that by staying on the undeveloped eastern side of the island, I'd have a lot more fun and see what the Bajans are really like.

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Mention that you're going to Barbados, and people who know the Caribbean generally say one of two things: "Aren't you afraid of running into Michael Winner?" Or: "Isn't it really boring?" I've just spent a pleasant week discovering the Winner-free part of Barbados, with empty beaches, deserted roads and great walking. I admit, I once spent half a day in Barbados between flights a few years ago and my first impression was of a sort of Isle of Wight in the sun, full of middle-class Brits and a coastal strip dominated by luxury hotels. In fact, the visitors seemed to outnumber the locals. This time I was persuaded that by staying on the undeveloped eastern side of the island, I'd have a lot more fun and see what the Bajans are really like.

Having spent a lot of time in Jamaica, it's true to say that the gentle rolling landscape of Barbados is no match for the grandeur of the Blue Mountains. In the north-east of Barbados is an area known as Scotland, with craggy outcrops and grassy hills. It did look a bit like Argyll, though with better weather. But the best thing about Barbados was the people. Quite simply, they are some of the friendliest in the Caribbean. None of that stroppy Jamaican attitude here – and when you get lost (which is inevitable as all the roads look the same and the maps aren't brilliant) they can't wait to give you directions. Mind you, after about five minutes of a lot of detail about windmills and signs, you're probably going to be even more confused. Barbados is amazingly hassle-free, and even though we went out of season (mid September) the temperatures were pleasantly high. I could have done without the mosquitoes though, although one nurse told me to put a few drops of citronella oil in my body lotion as a deterrent.

The best way to explore the undeveloped east coast, with its steep cliffs dropping down to the sea, is to hire a car and do a series of walks. We (my friend, Glen Donovan, travel agent to the stars, and I) made our base the newly opened Villa Nova, once the home of former prime minister Sir Anthony Eden (he resigned over the Suez Crisis in 1957) and now restored to its former glory as a small luxury hotel. The best thing about Villa Nova is that it's in the middle of nowhere. No traffic noises, no jet skis, no beach vendors and no Michael Winner (although I did find out that Sir Cliff Richard and Christopher Biggins have been in residence – in separate rooms, of course.)

The original house was built in 1831, and it's been tastefully extended, with rooms that have ceiling fans, wicker furniture and elegant verandas. It's surrounded by acres of gardens and has a large black-tiled swimming pool which is heated to blood temperature. Gary, the chef, has cooked at the Ivy and Kensington Place, so no problems there. As I floated in the pool, dozens of white (and the occasional yellow) butterflies fluttered over my head and I spotted a couple of green monkeys lazily swinging from one branch to another in one of the giant trees nearby.

After enjoying delicious fresh fruit salad for breakfast and grilled fish for lunch, it was a wrench to leave our peaceful haven, but I made Glen stick on his trainers and we set out to explore. It's possible to walk almost the entire length of the east coast of the island using footpaths and a disused railway line. In the 1880s, the British built the only railway on the island, stretching from Bridgetown eastwards and then following the coast all the way to Belleplaine via Bathsheba. Part of the line is now covered by road, but long sections still exist and make an excellent walking trail. The railway originally carried sugar and passengers, but eventually the weather, the sea, and landslips finished it off, and it was abandoned in 1937.

We drove from Villa Nova across country and down the steep winding road to St Martin's Bay, parking where it ended at the bottom. Turning north we followed a dirt track in front of a few houses – now we were on all that remained of the old line, undulating up and down, with huge bushes sometimes making a complete canopy overhead. The roar of the sea was intense as we walked through palms and shrubs, occasionally making small detours where once bridges had crossed streams and gullies. Three Boys rocks, a spectacular series of coral outcrops jutting from a foamy sea, marked the boundary between the parishes of St Joseph and St John. At Tent Bay, the Atlantis Hotel (built in 1890) was still standing, although it had obviously been battered by storms in recent years. Its Sunday lunches are part of Barbadian folklore.

This wild and unspoilt side of Barbados is where the locals traditionally go for their holidays, and on weekends the few restaurants are full of people eating massive meals. Swimming can be dangerous, and it's best to ask locals about the safe spots – Bath beach, for example, where there are changing rooms and smaller waves off a brown sandy beach. At Bathsheba the waves are tremendous and a spot known as the "soup bowl" is a favourite for surfers and boogie boarders.

Glen and I took about 50 minutes to reach the village of Bathsheba, strung out down a steep hillside to the sea. We took a break at the High Tide café and sipped Banks beers admiring the restored railway station opposite, by the public beach, where locals sat chilling out on wooden beaches on the immaculate lawns. On our walk back we passed people returning home from work, carrying ancient umbrellas and carrier bags of groceries, greeting us with "OK" or "Good afternoon".

By the Atlantis, fishermen were preparing for a night's work on the small yellow and blue wooden boats bobbing up and down furiously in the bay, and men were casting lines off the cliff. As dusk fell we could see the twinkling lights of St Martin's Bay and smell food being cooked for supper. We reached the car in virtual darkness, and I must admit Glen was a bit tight-lipped but luckily the white coral of the path had helped out in the gloom.

Next day we drove down to Bath beach for a swim, and found we were the only people there. Villa Nova plans to open a beach house for picnics there soon. Next stop was lunch at the Round House in Bathsheba, with a great view of the coastline. It kept reminding me of Cornwall, until the waitress put down plates of flying fish pâté and grilled dolphin. I don't think that would be available in Penzance. The Round House is a good place for straightforward cooking, with paintings by Bajan artists and locally made wooden furniture. They have live music at nights too. I'd eaten so much macaroni pie I made Glen stagger further up the railway line with me, passing in front of the café and heading up towards Cattlewash, passing underneath the Edgewater Hotel (a bit run down but perfectly OK, with great views from a couple of the bedrooms). Cattlewash is just a string of beach cottages, and then it was just us and the waves, and the odd car passing along the road. Bliss.

A couple of days later we tried Sunday lunch at the Cove, a small guest house just above the road, and sat on a white verandah, drinking Pinot Grigio and eating superior Bajan cooking, baked crab and roast pork. Exploring the north east of the island we found even more deserted beaches and the odd abandoned hotel. You can walk from River Bay along the top of coral cliffs to North Point, passing the exotically named Animal Flower Cave (full of sea anemones) where there's a small bar. This really feels like the back of beyond. Driving back over the hills of Scotland we passed the impressive St Nicholas Abbey, which was built in 1650 and is not only the oldest house in Barbados, but one of only three Jacobean houses in all of the Americas. Sadly, it had just closed for the day, but it's well worth a visit.

Driving up the hill outside, with ancient trees forming a canopy overhead, we reached the top and both exclaimed in unison "Wow!" You look down the east coast of the island at one of the best views in the Caribbean, with the craggy landscape of Scotland below and behind miles and miles of unspoilt sandy beach. Next stop was the Morgan Lewis Sugar Mill, the only working windmill on the island, built in 1800 and restored in 1988.

Driving on the narrow roads was a real joy, passing through small villages and imposing plantation houses, passing children in their neat school uniforms and a serious cricket match in progress in Belleplaine on Sunday afternoon. Just down the road a small bar was shut for the day. A sign announced the immortal words NIGEL BENN AUNTIE BAR – I was dying to pay a visit and see if the Dark Destroyer had left any signed photos or even had a cocktail named after him. I suppose an "out for the count" rum punch would be too obvious.

Before we left Barbados we decided to explore the other coast, visiting the Fustic House, on a ridge above Speightstown in the far north. This is one of the most beautiful houses on the island and you can rent it by the week. It's set in 12 acres of beautifully landscaped tropical gardens overlooking the sea, and it is enchanting.

There are low beamed ceilings in the oldest part of the building, and then a whole series of newer luxurious guest rooms, with private verandas. Ten acres of gardens include a large lily pond and an organically shaped swimming pool carved out of the rock, sheltered sunbathing spots with elegant pale-green wrought-iron loungers. An outside dining area has its own wood-burning stove. The staff includes an excellent chef.

On my last full day in Barbados I decided I couldn't leave without making a pilgrimage to Michael Winner's favourite place, and so I spent 24 hours at the newly restored Sandy Lane Hotel. After all that striding about in my hiking boots and baggy scout-mistress shorts I whipped on my Louis Vuitton swimsuit with a Hermès beach wrap. It's that kind of place.

The room was the last word in luxury, the sandy beach perfect white sand, and the sea totally calm. The hotel has built a large spa complex with an excellent gym, so this is as good a way as any to return to civilisation after six days chilling out in the wilderness. My room had a massive Plasma TV and elaborate control panels for adjusting everything from the lighting to the curtains. The bathroom was huge and, sadly, the wall-to-wall mirrors showed both my two dozen mosquito bites and my new podgy stomach off to perfection.

While we were seeing how the other half live, Glen and I checked out the Lone Star, further down the coast, a beachfront chic restaurant that has added four rooms. They each had private terraces that overlooked the same white-sand beach and were stylishly decorated in a way that will definitely find favour with ad-men and pop stars.

So there you have it: the two completely different faces of Barbados. I'd suggest spending five days at Villa Nova and then a couple on the other side of the island. Where you go depends on how much you want to spend. Personally, I shall be saving up for Fustic House and a return to Villa Nova. I might even invite Mr Winner for drinks.

The facts

Getting there

Janet Street-Porter travelled to Barbados with British Airways Club World, price £2,670. A BA economy flight, returning in November, costs from £506.

Being there

Villa Nova and Sandy Lane Hotels can be booked through Carrier Holidays (01625 547020). Seven nights at Villa Nova from now until 17 December, and from April to November 2002, in a deluxe terrace room, costs from £1,595 per person. Price from January to March 2002 (deluxe terrace room) is £2,525 per person.

Fustic House and Lone Star can be booked through Earth Travel (020-7793 9993; fax: 020-7793 9994). Fustic House sleeps 11, although it might rent rooms individually. Earch charges £2,517 per double-occupancy room per week for Lone Star from 15 December to 31 January 2002, excluding 7.5 per cent VAT and a 10 per cent service charge.

Further information

Recommended reading: Walking Barbados by David H Weeks, published by the Barbados National Trust. ISBN 976-806-00-X. The Ordnance Map of Barbados, 1:50,000, available to order from Edward Stanford, 12-14 Long Acre, London WC2E 9LP, email customer.services@stanfords.co.uk

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