Five Best: Urban escapes in Canada
Saturday, 24 February 2007
Ottawa River and Rideau Canal, Ottowa
From a handsome parliament to excellent bars and restaurants, Ottawa has all the features you associate with a capital city, yet it feels friendlier and more relaxed than most political hubs. Thanks are due to both nature and man. Nature bestowed the city with the Ottawa River, a broad and dramatic waterway that provides a fine bookend to the city; man created the Rideau Canal, which cuts right through Ottawa - and, in winter, provides the world's longest ice rink. In summer, you can walk, cycle or rollerblade the canal towpath, or the national hiking trail which runs along the south bank of the river. As it passes through Ottawa, this is known as the Capital Pathway. An excellent place to stay is the Fairmont Chateau Laurier (00 1 613 241 1414; www.fairmont.com), a luxurious establishment perched above the river and the canal.
Public Gardens, Halifax
Nova Scotia's big city is the perfect gateway to Canada: Halifax is not only closer to Britain than the more traditional arrival points, it is also a rewarding destination, blending Victorian and 21st century architecture in a spectacular setting on one of the world's largest natural harbours. The Public Gardens are a highlight: a Victorian park with a mix of flowerbeds, fountains, statues and a duck pond, whose inhabitants are one of the main attractions. The place is at its best in spring and early summer when flowers and blossom come into bloom, but thoughtful landscaping means there is something to enjoy at any time of year. The bandstand was built to celebrate the golden jubilee of Queen Victoria in 1887, and is still the venue for free summer concerts - or the odd tai chi session. Where? South Park Street and Spring Garden Road. When? 8am to dusk daily, May to November.
Mount Royal Park, Montreal
Visitors to the de facto capital of Francophone Canada are often amazed by the mosaic of cultures that comprise Montreal. While the official provincial tongue is French, walking around the (very walkable) city you hear dozens of languages. The place they converge is the mountain at the heart of the island that Montreal occupies. Mount Royal Park is to Montreal what Central Park is to New York: back garden, meeting place, rural retreat. Both were landscaped by the same man, Frederick Law Olmsted. In autumn, the autumn foliage is dazzling. In winter, Beaver Lake freezes over for skating, while cross-country skiers use the trails. There are walking trails, a sculpture park and lookout points. Café Santropol in the trendy Plateau Mont-Royal neighbourhood, at 3990 Rue St-Urbain (00 1 514 842 3110) celebrates the architectural heritage of Montreal - and serves the best latte in Quebec.
Stanley Park, Vancouver
If you are flying into Vancouver, choose a plane due to touch down during the hours of daylight - and demand a window seat. That way, you can expect a grandstand view of a city that coexists harmoniously with the great outdoors. Framed by mountains, plains and ocean, British Columbia's biggest city maintains a human scale that infiltrates even the high-rise downtown. Perhaps one reason it feels so liveable is the vast Stanley Park, a serene, green space between the city centre and the coast. Much of it is enclosed by 9km of sea wall, a flat expanse of which is used by walkers, cyclists and rollerbladers who can enjoy views across the bay and down to the sandy beaches as they take their exercise. The park contains half a million trees - as well as formal gardens full of roses and rhodedendrons; totem poles; rocks, lakes and sculptures.
Inglewood Bird Sanctuary, Calgary
The Stampede each July is what draws most visitors to this booming Western city, but at any time of year Calgary is a rewarding destination - with world-class art galleries, a rich cultural mix and a superb transport system. This will take you a few kilometres south-east of downtown to the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary at 2425 9 Avenue SE (open 10am-5pm daily May-September; 10am-4pm Tuesday-Sunday from October to April). Here, more than 250 species of birds, 300 plants and many animals live in a 35-hectare wildlife reserve. Well-marked walking trails cover nearly 3km, weaving through the thickly wooded terrain beside the river and around an attractive lagoon. There are few facilities, except those provided for the feathered visitors: a monitoring station has been set up to record their migration habits.
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