Hotel Of The Week: The London NYC, New York

Dinner is served. And what a performance. I know this is Gordon Ramsay's New York debut, but, boy, do they put on a show when they serve your meal at his eponymous restaurant in The London NYC. But then a restaurant of this standard is all about theatre. Indeed, the best seats in the house are deemed to be at "the chef's table", right next to where they chop up the veg in the kitchen.

Most of us will, however, settle for eating in the elegant main dining room, where I await my dinner with nervous excitement. For the critics haven't been kind to Ramsay about his Manhattan adventure. The New York Times complained that his menu was "cautious ... as reliant on default luxuries and flourishes ... as on real imagination". Can it be true? Well, my dinner turns out to be generally good, though not amazing.

In truth, I'm more impressed by the decor. The dining room is a splendid space, the work of the acclaimed interior designer David Collins, who has lined its walls with panels that can be turned to show on one side hand-carved timber and on the other a mother-of-pearl effect. It's an inventive approach replicated throughout the hotel. Texture appears to be Collins's inspiration. Woven linen is set in the loo doors. Sensual suede lines the walls of the bedroom corridors.

And layered on top of these general good looks is the theme of "all things English". The alpaca used about the place is supposed to be reminiscent of English stainless steel, the silk embroidery above reception depicts London parks.

The location

Prime shopping territory, on West 54th between Sixth and Seventh Avenues, you're five minutes' walk from the big stores on Fifth and a cab hop to the rest.

The comfort factor

Supremely comfortable, for all 562 rooms are suites. The sitting rooms in the suites contain a covetable rocking chair, a large leather desk, and a sumptuous kidney-shaped sofa with a round lacquer table that swivels up or down, where you can work, or lounge, or even eat.

The bathroom

Dominated by a huge shower (only some suites have baths ). Both the porcelain and toiletries are provided by the unfortunately named Waterworks. It's a place of beauty, with cut-glass tiles appearing to ripple across the wall.

The food and drink

As well as the main dining room, The London Bar offers breakfast, afternoon tea, cocktails and, like Ramsay's London restaurant maze, a tasting menu of small plates.

The people

A smart crowd with more than a few dollars in their wallets.

The area

The hotel's gym, The London Club, will open next month. Central Park is a few blocks north, and Carnegie Hall is around the corner at West 57th and Seventh. For more information, consult concierge, which is run by Quintessentially, get a copy of Time Out New York timeout.com/new york) or contact NYC & Co (nycvisit. com).

The damage

Suites from $469 (£240) per night, room-only.

The address

151 West 54th Street, New York, NY 10019 (001 212 307 5000; thelondonnyc.com).

Kate Simon travelled to The London NYC with Silverjet (0871 700 8520; flysilverjet.com) which offers return flights to New York from £799

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* Guests can admire the views while feasting on Nobu's signature dish, black cod, at the InterContinental Hong Kong (0800 911 617; ichotelsgroup.com).

* Sample Alain Ducasse's Riviera cuisine at the Louis XV restaurant in the Hôtel de Paris (00 377 98 06 25 25; hoteldeparismontecarlo.com), Monaco.