Let's Spend The Night Together: Barbados Special

Barbadians have always known how to get away to the healthy benefits of Atlantic breezes.

The Crane, St Philip

Barbadians have always known how to get away to the healthy benefits of Atlantic breezes. The Crane is the oldest operating hotel in the Caribbean, placed dramatically on the cliffs above Crane Beach, facing the vast ocean. The original building is 18th century; the hotel proper opened in 1887; today it's super luxury in an understated traditional style that has nothing to do with the celebrity posing of the west coast. The Beckhams are never seen here. Friendly discretion is the operating mode for guests and staff. The dress code is casual - elegantly casual for dining (the restaurant offers excellent menus from Japanese to Thai). The accommodation so well appointed, so spacious, so discreet, with so many private pools, you could spend your entire time in total seclusion - except that the beach swimming is wonderfully energising in the Atlantic breakers. (If the 100 steps down are daunting, watch the action from the terrace with your rum punch). Otherwise, the only activity is reading.

Meanwhile, don't be daunted by the shock of a building site as the 40-acre site is transformed into a state-of-the art resort of time-share properties - apartments and townhouses all based on the concept of the original 18 rooms. A tropical spa in the palm trees, fitness suite and tennis courts are to be added later. Once in the rooms, it's all left behind.

Countless visitors come for the day and buy into their share of the future on the spot. And the way things grow in Barbados, building scars will be smothered by lush tropical gardens within weeks.

Location

The Crane, St Philip, Barbados (001 246 423 6220; www.thecrane.com). On the south-east coast, away from the bustle of the south coast and any other hotel. Total tranquillity and also well placed for exploring the wild side of Barbados.

Time from international airport: 10 minutes by taxi, B$25 (£6.50). Bus service B$1.50 (40p), route 12 to Sam Lord's Castle.

Comfortable?

The decor reflects the original hotel: coral limestone walls, 11-foot high timber "tray" ceilings, hardwood floors, natural timber doors and windows. Most have drawing rooms with elegant, colonial-inspired furniture together with huge well-stuffed sofas, and water colours from 1888; the rooms leading out to a large secluded balcony, sometimes even to a private pool. Beds are an extra large double, bathrooms with whirlpool baths, spa showers, towels, robes, soaps, lotions, well-appointed cupboards with full-length mirrors including ironing facilities. Air conditioning is easily bested by the natural through air-flow of Atlantic breezes and ceiling fans

For self catering, kitchens are well-equipped: get groceries from the local supermarket using the Crane's free shuttle service. There is a washing machine and dryer, too.

Keeping in touch: TV and DVD in each room, with internet connectivity for those with laptops; free internet access also in the lobby. British newspapers faxed daily.

The Bottom Line

In the 1887 building, doubles start at US$155 (£81) per night in low season, $330 (£174) high: in new residences, one bedroom with an ocean view $385 (£203) to $795 (£418).
Natalie Wheen

Cobblers Cove Hotel, St Peter

What does an English plantation owner do when he tires of having nowhere to change for his swims in the Caribbean? He buys a plot of land and builds a turreted country house on the beach, of course. That was how Cobblers Cove came into being, in 1940, and the pink-washed folly became a self-catering hotel in 1968. Today, although much extended, it has retained its intimate atmosphere. The new buildings are well hidden among the exquisite gardens, which are dramatically floodlit at night. The overall effect is a pleasing blend of colonial quaintness and understated luxury. Guests can read the news from Britain at breakfast, and are served tea and sandwiches on decent china at four o'clock.

The service is attentive, but not intrusive. The open-air restaurant is as close to the water as is safe to lay a table, and offers a stylish European menu, with a twist. The hotel has its own fisherman, Barker, whose daily catch (barracuda, swordfish or whatever else is tempted by the live bait he hangs over the edge of his boat) becomes the evening's special.

Two of the 40 suites have private sun terraces and pools; the remainder have an air-conditioned bedroom, en suite bathroom, kitchenette, and sitting room with louvre doors that open on to a terrace. Facilities include a tennis court, gym, pool and access to a beach. Motor boats are available for recreation or turtle-watching.

Location

Cobblers Cove, St Peter, Barbados (001 246 422 2291; www.cobblerscove.com). Situated on the north-west (Caribbean) coast, a mile south of Speightstown, but far from the madding holiday crowd.

Transport: there is a regular bus service to and from the capital, Bridgetown, for a fare of B$1.50 (40p), but Cobblers Cove clients tend to take taxis.

Time from international airport: about 45 minutes by cab, for a fare of about B$100 (£27).

Comfortable?

Hard not to be, although the crashing of the Caribbean waves on the hotel breakwater might disturb your sleep on the first night. Then the natural rhythms of the tropics take over and lull the senses. The suites are generously stocked with books, regularly replenished. Mine had PD James, Sebastian Faulks and The Alan Clark diaries.

Freebies: A good range of organic Molton Brown toiletries; a bottle of rum and the ingredients for the hotel's own cocktail, the Cobblers Cooler - their lips are sealed. And a complimentary torch helps you navigate through the gardens on dark evenings.

Keeping in touch: Communication with the outside world is feasible, but deliberately minimal. A new TV lounge, discreetly tucked away, has a widescreen TV and laptop computer with free broadband internet. Otherwise, all the suites have a single telephone.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Basic suites are priced from US$390 (£205) per night in summer (April-September) to US$755 (£397) per night in the high season over Christmas and New Year, when the price includes a full English breakfast.
Peter MacNeil

Coral Reef Club, St James

Set in beachside gardens on the glamorous west coast of Barbados, this quiet, classy hotel has provided well-heeled sun-seekers with a luxurious retreat for more than 40 years. Celebrities do come to stay, but the atmosphere is more old money. And luxury is not measured here by the size of your TV - in fact, you won't find one in your bedroom - it's about the quality of service. You may think this spells stuffy. Yet the atmosphere is surprisingly relaxed for such a traditional five-star establishment. No, you won't have to wear a jacket to dinner and you can bring the kids. But then the O'Hara family has had nearly half a century to get the atmosphere right. Guests spend their days drifting from their rooms to the pool, to the beach, to the restaurant. And when they can be bothered, there are watersports, a gym, and golf and tennis to enjoy.

Location

Coral Reef Club, St James, Barbados (001 246 422 2372, www.coralreefbarbados.com).

Time from international airport: it's 18 miles to Grantley Adams airport. A taxi costs B$42 (£11) and takes 35 minutes. To meet the locals, take a bus from the airport to Oistins where you can pick up the City Bypass bus, which stops near the hotel, for just B$1.50 (40p) per ride.

Comfortable?

Choose from 88 rooms, cottages, suites and villas, some offering views of the mature gardens, others looking out over the shimmering ocean. In the past few years the luxury cottages and suites have been rebuilt with private plunge pools. Your choice of room depends on the size of your wallet and your party, but each is spacious and spotless, with comfortable furnishings, air-conditioning, king-size beds and large baths.

Freebies: toiletries by Thymes, watersports, regular live entertainment, a weekly cocktail party hosted by the owners.

Keeping in touch: all rooms have a telephone and CD player. You can rent a TV and video plus seven tapes for US$140 (£75) per week - costly, but then if you're staying here you can probably afford it. There is also a communal lounge with satellite TV. Guests have free use of a computer suite with internet access.

The Bottom Line?

From 15 December to 11 March, doubles cost from US$620 (£326) per night, room only. There is a US$50 (£26) supplement per room per night from 20 December to 3 January. British Airways Holidays (0870-2433 406; www.ba.com/holidays) offers seven nights at the Coral Reef Club from £2,252 per person, for departures from 4 January to 10 March. The price includes return international flights to Barbados, connections from most UK regional airports to Gatwick, and private transfers.
Kate Simon

Colony Club, St James

The Colony Club hotel on the wealthy west coast of the island is a reminder of why some people call Barbados "Little England". The restored former English Club puts you in mind of a luxury home away from home of a bygone era.

As its name suggests you wouldn't come here to go clubbing; this is a gloriously civilised place for families and people looking for a more grown-up holiday with a touch of sophisticated West Indian charm. Couples getting married stay here (check out the four poster beds). There's a lovely sandy white beach and the club staff will happily serve you fabulous rum cocktails all day while you lie on your sun-lounger, reading your paper. If you're travelling with children, you might like to take one of the many rooms which overlook the freshwater swimming lagoons.

If exercise is your thing, you can play a spot of tennis or head to the watersports centre to be kitted out for snorkeling, kayaking, windsurfing or (at an extra cost) scuba diving.

Ditch your flip flops for dinner and enjoy food with a distinctly Caribbean twist - such as tasty bajan dishes including flying fish and plantain.

Location

Colony Club, Porters, St. James, Barbados, West Indies ( 0800 587 3427; www.colonyclubhotel.com)

Time from international airport: see Coral Reef Club.

Comfortable?

There are 96 rooms and suites with varying degrees of luxury. Whitewashed wooden ceilings add to the bright and airy feeling of the accommodation. My suite had a huge, comfy king-sized bed. A bar, sofa, fridge and a balcony over-looking the gardens. I certainly felt at home. The jacuzzi shower was the main feature in the bathroom (I reckon you could fit eight people in it... but didn't put this to the test).

Freebies: Shampoo, conditioner and body lotion were all provided. Bathrobes and slippers are also offered.

Keeping in touch: If you have your own laptop, internet access is available in your room plus radio/CD player and cable TV.

Bottom Line

Basic garden/pool view room costs from US$305 (£160) per night in low season to US$857 (£451) per night in high season. A luxury pool/garden view junior suite costs US$475 (£250) per night in low season and US$1,027 (£540) per night in high season.
Joyce Ohajah

A Plate With A View

The Cliff

The Plate

Never mind the bikini, it's gladrags you must not forget to pack if you intend to eat out at The Cliff in Barbados. One of the island's (if not the Caribbean's) finest restaurants, it has remained a favourite with discerning diners since it opened a decade ago.

But don't expect a nouvelle-cuisine version of flying fish and chips or jerk chicken with rice and peas. British chef Paul Owen - here since The Cliff opened - prefers a creative, modern, international menu with a Thai twist. Snow crab cake with coriander cream, vinaigrette and red curry oil; sliced duck breast with wild mushroom sauce, creamed potatoes, morels and tartlet of carrot; assorted berries in champagne jelly with chibouste creme gratin, berry compote and tuile bisquit. All delicious, if not very Caribbean. There is a dash of local flavour here and there - red snapper, local shrimp, rum in the vanilla sauce.

The View

The Caribbean may not feature much on the menu, but there is no mistaking where you are. The Cliff is perched just above the sea at St James, on the ritzy "Platinum" coast, overlooking a strip of sand.

The Bill

Two courses costs US$75 (£39) per head, dessert a further US$12.50 (£7) and petit fours US$7.50 (£4)). All prices include 15 per cent tax. A global wine list starts at BDS$55 (£14) and climbs through the roof.

Kate Simon

The Cliff, Derricks, St James, Barbados (001 246 432 1922; www.thecliffbarbados.com). Open for dinner only from 6pm-9.30pm, Monday to Saturday year round (Sundays from December to April). Booking essential.

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