Plate With A View: The Rainbow Room, New York

THE VIEW

THE VIEW

The Rockefeller Center ( left) is a magnificent Art Deco structure built in the 1930s. As you arrive, you are met by the frescos American Progress and Time by Jose Maria Sert in the lobby. Ascend to the 65th floor for Sunday brunch in the Rainbow Room and enjoy unparalleled views of the most celebrated cityscape in the world. The Empire State and Chrysler buildings bear witness to New York's age of grace. The modern glass and steel towers that dominate the skyline demonstrate the city's pre-eminence in world finance. The Rainbow Room also showcases Central Park at its most splendid, affording a lengthways vista of the whole expanse of green.

The view internally is equally stimulating: tasteful, understated, elegant Art Deco. A harpist adds to the gentility of the atmosphere. The clients are mostly in family groups, and are predominately middle-aged people dressed in Ralph Lauren, with children in tow who are miniature versions of themselves. The brash vulgarity that some Brits expect from New Yorkers is notable by its absence; no one is noisy, all are having a good time and the only blemish is the frequency of interruptions from mobile phones.

THE PLATE

A huge revolving buffet spins in the centre of the room, teasing patrons as it passes slowly like a rotating delicatessen. From succulent fruit via elaborate egg dishes to fresh seafood, there is too much of everything. An ice sculpture shows off the fresh oysters at their best; the slight twist of a carved parmigiano adds a hint of New York Italian to the mix.

THE BILL

The basic buffet costs a hefty $110 (£62) - and that is just the start. With a fruit juice, one cocktail, some water and a coffee, the tax- and service-inclusive price rises to nearly $200 (£118). But bearing in mind all the sensory stimulation on offer, it's a great investment. Book well in advance and specify a window table.

The Rainbow Room, 30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10112 (001 212 632 5100; www.rockefellercenter.com)