The complete guide to Peru

Peru

Hey, there's a lot more to Peru than the Incas. Machu Picchu, the mist-shrouded Inca citadel and arguably the most famous sight in South America, is the highlight of every tourist itinerary, but this long South American country, stretching 2,500km down the Pacific coast and bordered by Ecuador and Colombia to the north, Chile to the south and Bolivia and Brazil to the east, offers far more than one (admit- tedly important and completely breathtaking) archaeological site.

Peru

Hey, there's a lot more to Peru than the Incas. Machu Picchu, the mist-shrouded Inca citadel and arguably the most famous sight in South America, is the highlight of every tourist itinerary, but this long South American country, stretching 2,500km down the Pacific coast and bordered by Ecuador and Colombia to the north, Chile to the south and Bolivia and Brazil to the east, offers far more than one (admit- tedly important and completely breathtaking) archaeological site.

Peru as a tourist destination has it all – unless you're looking for traditional beach resorts. However, if you're after unspoilt stretches of coastline, Punta Sal in the north is as dramatic, rugged and wild as it gets – think crashing waves and sea lions on a deserted expanse of fine white sand. Caribbean this is not.

What Peru does offer is a whole range of opportunities for cultural holidays, wildlife-watching tours and adventure sports. Peru is a land of extremes and vast geographical diversity. Encompassing barren coastal desert and dense tropical rainforest, as well as the soaring peaks of the Andes, Peru is also home to the Colca Canyon, a chasm twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, and Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world.

The capital, Lima, is a fog-bound city on the coast (the garua rolls in from the Pacific in May and hangs around until November) with some impressive colonial architecture and museums, but most tourists use it simply as a gateway to the sights. As far as culture goes, you've got everything from colourful Indian markets to elegant colonial towns, and as for wildlife, the Ballestas Islands are called the poor man's Galapagos, while the jungle is bursting at the seams. Peru is also the perfect destination for adrenalin-pumping adventure sports – white-water rivers and rock climbing in the Andes, sandsurfing in the desert and surfing on the coast for starters. And when it comes to ancient civilisations, archaeological excavations along the coast and in the highlands or Sierra reveal that the Incas were just babes in arms when the Nascas and the Lord of Sipan were flexing their muscles.

OK, a brief history lesson. Peru was named by the Spanish conquistador and one-time pig farmer Francisco Pizarro in 1532. However, before the Spaniards rocked up, eyes peeled for gold, drooling at the thought of untold riches, the area had seen the rise and fall of numerous highly developed civilisations pre-dating the Incas by thousands of years. Most of the pre-Inca sites are found along the coastal desert, although up in the highlands one of the most important pre-Colombian sites, the Chavin de Huántar temple fortress, dates back to 800BC.

On the south coast the Nasca Lines, geometrical drawings of animals scratched into the earth and visible only from the air, had scientists stumped for decades. They are now thought to be part of an astronomical calendar. Images of birds, a monkey, a killer whale and spider, some almost 100m across, were etched by the Nascas between 200BC and 600AD.

Further up the coast are the Temples of the Sun and Moon and the burial site of the Moche lord at Sipan. The Moches ruled over 400km of desert coast and are famous for their ceramics and metalwork. The Lord of Sipan's tomb, discovered in 1987, was full of striking funereal pottery, and gold, silver and gems. Also on the north coast, near the pastel-painted colonial city of Trujillo, is Chan Chan – the largest adobe city in the world, constructed around 1300 by the Chimu dynasty. The most powerful kingdom in Peru before the Incas, the Chimu were defeated by the Inca armies in around 1464.

Natural disasters, of which Peru has plenty (based as it is on a geological fault that spans the length of the continent), also wiped out civilisation after civilisation. The Moche kingdom came to an end between AD650-700, probably because of the climatic phenomenon known as El Niño. When the warm current from the equator, named after the Christ-child because it occurs at Christmas, replaces the cold Humboldt current from the Antarctic, it causes torrential rain along the normally arid coast, destroying crops and irrigation canals and causing widespread famine. However, it took a nasty European disaster in the form of gold-greedy Spanish conquistadors to stamp out the Sun-worshipping Incas.

Today half the population of Peru is still pure Indian in origin and the country has two official languages; Spanish and Quechua (Aymara is also spoken in some remote Indian villages).

Legend has it that Lake Titicaca on the border with Bolivia was the birthplace of the Inca civilisation. The story goes that the Sun god's children, Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, emerged from the lake to found Cusco and the Inca dynasty. At 3,856m above sea level, Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world. The icy cold waters cover 8,000 square kilometres, dotted with over 30 islands still populated by local Indians eking out an existence and ploughing the waters in traditional reed boats. You can visit the floating reed islands or Uros islands on the lake or stay with local people as part of community based tourism projects on Taquile and Amantani islands. Many travellers take the 10-hour train journey to Puno near Lake Titicaca from Cusco or Arequipa.

The Incas were originally a small regional culture living in the central highlands, then along came Pachacutec, a leader with big ideas and expansion on his mind. He sent Inca armies to conquer rival kingdoms to the north and the south and in just 50 years the Inca empire stretched from what is now Colombia to Chile.

Cusco, now the gringo or tourist capital of Peru, was once the magnificent mountainous capital of the Incas – until the Spanish breezed in, building their churches and colonial buildings on top of the Inca foundations. Today it's a picturesque town of cobbled streets and squares, and the base from which to explore the local Inca sites and for the trek to Machu Picchu.

Quite literally. In an hour you can travel from sea level in Lima to Cusco, at almost 4,000m high where altitude sickness can strike. It's essential to rest for a few days to acclimatise. In its mildest form altitude sickness can manifest itself as lethargy and nausea. However, if severe, it can be life threatening and the only option is to descend to lower altitudes as quickly as possible. A traditional remedy used by the Indians to relieve symptoms is to munch on coca leaves. Bags of the leaves can be bought from roadside stalls and shops before you head out on the Inca Trail.

It was a young American archaeologist named Hiram Bingham who discovered the fabled lost city of the Incas in 1911. The Inca Trail, or at least Machu Picchu, is now on practically every tourist's hit list. And, as the crowds have increased, the Peruvian government has come under increased pressure to preserve the trail. It is now harder to just turn up and join a trek. For those who just want to see the ruins, you can do it by train in a day. However, Machu Picchu itself can often be a disappointment, swarming with tourists even at 7am. The best way to appreciate the most spectacular of the Inca ruins is to hike the trail, camping at designated sites. The four-day trek is broken up into sections, and anyone with a reasonable fitness level should have no problems. Hiking along paved Inca pathways and vast staircases cut into the hillsides, the trail passes Inca sights such as Puyapatamarka, and through landscapes ranging from thick cloud forest to stretches of bleak exposed mountainside.

That's Sacsayhuamán, an old ceremonial centre and fortress on a hill outside Cusco built using massive blocks of stone, which it's estimated could once hold up to 5,000 soldiers. It was from here that Manco Inca tried to wrest back Cusco from the Spanish in 1536 – an enterprise doomed to failure. Other Inca sites in the Urubamba river valley (known to the Incas as the Sacred Valley) include the Inca fortress in Pisac (also famous for its colourful Indian market each Sunday) and the fortress of Ollantaytambo at the northern end of the valley.

Some quite magnificent colonial architecture, to give them their due. Arequipa, the intellectual capital of Peru, sits in the shadow of snow-capped Volcan Misti and is built almost entirely from sillar, a white volcanic material. The city lies on the Cadena del Fuego (line of fire), a geological fault that runs the length of the country and has suffered its fair share of earthquake damage. The last major earthquake registering 7.9 on the Richter scale took place on 23 June 2001. However, most of the elegant colonial buildings, with their intricately carved wooden doors and deep windows barred with ornate grilles, remain intact. The Plaza de Armas or main square is one of Peru's finest with palm trees and a fountain in the middle, bordered by the cathedral and two-storey arcades. The city is also home to the convent of Santa Catalina, a colourful flower-strewn colonial town in miniature where, scandalously, aristocratic nuns once lived in luxury with their servants.

Peru has a huge variety of flora and fauna, including 1,500 species of birds. This is a twitchers' heaven, featuring everything from condors to macaws.

Just four hours' drive from Arequipa is one of Peru's most popular tourist attractions, the Colca Canyon. Twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, at 3,182m it was once thought to be the deepest in the world – until the nearby Cotahuasi Canyon was discovered to be even deeper. Every morning the condors, the largest birds in the world, rise on the thermals – soaring high above the Rio Colca far below – as tourists perch on the rim mesmerised. Then there's the poor man's Galapagos. The Ballestas Islands off the coast near Paracas (also the site of an important pre-Incan civilisation from 1300BC to AD200) have an abundance of marine wildlife. You're not allowed to land on the islands, but boats will get you close enough to see sea lions, seals, penguins, turtles, albatrosses, pelicans, boobies, cormorants and seagulls.

Around two thirds of Peru is jungle. And much of it is untouched virgin rainforest. The main jumping off point for trips into the Amazon is Iquitos in the north, a 19th-century rubber boom town. However, two other areas are worth exploring. From Puerto Maldonado in the south you can reach the Tambopata-Candamo Reserved Zone, which has a record number of species, including the largest-known macaw clay licks. The other is the Manu Biosphere Reserve, one of the oldest national parks in South America and reputed to have the highest biological diversity of any rainforest. The only way to explore is along the sluggish brown rivers that cut through this thick carpet of vegetation. At half the size of Switzerland it's bursting with wildlife – more than 1,000 species of birds, including the elusive cock-of-the-rock, 13 species of monkey, turtles, caiman, tapirs, giant anteaters and capybara (rather like giant guinea pigs).

Well, tastier than the chicken and chips found on all the tourist menus. Peruvian cuisine reflects the diversity of the landscape. Along the coast fish is unsurprisingly the local delicacy, especially ceviche – fresh white fish marinated in lemon juice and peppers and served with corn on the cob and sweet potatoes. Other specialities include a delicious shrimp stew, chupe de camarones, and aguadito, a rice and fish soup. In the jungle fish (from the rivers) is also popular along with fried bananas and yucca, the powdery staple and potato substitute. Cuy or guinea pig is a highlands favourite, along with lomo saltado – stir-fried beef, tomatoes and onions, with seasoning such as ginger and chilli. Often seen strung out on spits or racks, roast guinea pig is not for the squeamish – the head is left on so you know it's not a rat.

A pisco sour. Peru's national drink is pisco, a clear grape brandy, named after the southern coastal city where it was invented. Pisco sour is a potent cocktail made with whipped egg white, lemon juice, bitters and topped with brown sugar. The Spaniards are thought to have created pisco by mistake after introducing grapes for wine production to the area. You can tour a pisco distillery, the Bodega El Carmelo, in the oasis town of Ica in the main wine-producing region.

Another peculiarly Andean beverage is mate de coca, a tea made from coca leaves and served in restaurants in the Sierra to provide relief from altitude sickness or soroche.

Because of the diversity of the landscape, Peru has a number of different climatic zones. Generally, June to September is the best time to trek the Inca Trail. Days are usually dry and sunny although nights can be cold at altitude. However, April and May are also good months to visit the Andes, as the scenery is particularly lush and green and there are fewer tourists. The wettest months are November to April. The jungle is hot and humid all year, but the dry season lasts from April to October. During the wet season landslides occur and some roads are impassable. The coastal desert is one of the driest in the world, although, the effects of El Niño can be devastating – in 1998 floods washed away much of the coastal road. In Lima the summer months are December to April, when the garua which rolls in from May to October dissipates and the sun starts to shine.

There are no direct flights from the UK to Peru. However, you can fly from Europe to Lima with KLM via Amsterdam, Lufthansa via Frankfurt, Iberia via Madrid, and via America with United and American Airlines. Your best bet is to buy a ticket via the specialist agencies such as South American Experience (020-7976 5511, www.southamericanexperience.co.uk), Journey Latin America (020-8747 8315, www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk) and Last Frontiers (01296 658650, www.lastfrontiers.co.uk), which also specialise in tailor-made trips. A return flight costs around £550. Trips Worldwide (0117 311 4403, www.tripsworldwide.co.uk) also offers tailor-made itineraries.

For overland trips and group adventures contact Dragoman (01728 861133, www.dragoman.co.uk), Exodus (020-8675 5550, www.exodus.co.uk), Explore Worldwide (01252 319448, www.exploreworldwide.com) and Guerba Expeditions (01373 826 611). I took an overland tour with Tucan Travel (020-8896 1600, www.tucantravel.com) which also organises local transport trips. High Places (0114 275 7500, www.highplaces.co.uk) specialises in trekking and hiking while Naturetrek (01962 733 051, www.naturetrek.co.uk) offers birdwatching and natural history trips as does Reef and Rainforest Tours (01803 866 965, www.reefrainforest.co.uk).

You can do it on your own. Peru is well set up for independent travel. The ex-President Fujimori not only wiped out the terrorist threat in the form of the Shining Path guerillas, but also sorted out the country's infrastructure. Getting around Peru isn't as difficult as you might expect, given the rugged landscape – and the fact that the country covers an area three times larger than California. The Panamerican Highway runs the length of the coast and most of the towns are linked by good coach services, while internal air travel between the cities is an invaluable short cut at times (Cusco is just a 40-minute flight from Lima). Internal flights are also cheap – single journeys start from around $39 (£25). You can pick up flights at travel agents in Peru or book through a company such as South American Experience. An internal airpass is also available but prices are so cheap it's often easier to just buy individual flights.

As far as safety is concerned, the Foreign Office advises that "most visits to Peru are generally trouble-free. However, following a number of recent serious sexual attacks in Cusco against both locals and foreigners, including British citizens, travellers to Cusco should be extremely vigilant at all times and take sensible precautions." Generally, apart from Lima, Cusco and Arequipa, street crime is not a major problem. For more information, visit the website www.fco.gov.uk.

The Latin American Travel Association (LATA) publishes a useful free Guide to Latin America, available free on request from 020-8715 2913 or www.lata.org. It features information on each of the 25 Latin American destinations, including Peru, plus contact details for airlines, tour operators, guide books, tourist boards and hotels.

The South American Explorers Club (www.samexplo.org) which has clubhouses in Peru (in Lima and Cusco) is also invaluable. Mainly acting as an information centre for members, it's a good place to hook up with other members if you're travelling on your own. Other facilities on offer include luggage storage and internet access.

Adrenalin junkies

Climbing, trekking, white-water rafting

Peru is an adrenalin-junkie's paradise. The extremes in the country's topography lend themselves to a vast range of adventure sports. Starting with the mountains, the Cordillera Blanca offers the largest group of glaciated peaks in South America – more than 50 summits – for ice climbers. There are also numerous trekking opportunities apart from the Inca Trail for those who want something more off the beaten track. Mountain biking is becoming increasingly popular and there are plenty of dirt tracks through the Andes, while Peru also has some of the best rivers in the world for whitewater rafting with world-class rapids of every level. The Rio Apurimac is the true source of the Amazon and flows through a 2,000m gorge and spectacular desert canyons offering the chance to get away from the gringo trail and explore some of the wilder parts of the country. However, as an industry whitewater rafting remains largely unchecked and, as with all of the above, safety should be a prime concern. There are any number of specialist companies that can organise trips within Peru (many based in Cusco), but if you're just heading there for a couple of weeks holiday it might be advisable to book the trip with a UK operator. Journey Latin America (020-8742 1312, www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk) offers graded group active adventure packages including a 15-day canyonland rafting and Inca highlights trip with four days hiking and three rafting from £1,386 excluding international flights. The company also offers high-altitude trekking away from the crowds and mountain bike extensions.

Alpaca señorita, es muy bonita

The right way to get fleeced

This is thetypical refrain of Indian women plying their trade in the local markets, selling brightly coloured jumpers, ponchos, hats and blankets. The wool comes from the domesticated llamas and alpacas, now thought to be the result of cross-breeding between the two wild Andean cameloids; the vicuna and the guanaco. The vicuna is the timidest, and produces the finest wool in the world. They cannot be shorn annually, only every third year, which makes their fleece even more prized. As such the species was once threatened with extinction, as poachers killed the animals for profit. They are now protected and numbers are gradually increasing. Alpaca can only be shorn every other year, but their wool is much finer than that of the shaggy, long-haired llama. Alpaca also has no smell when it's wet, whereas llama stinks – hence the refrain.

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