The complete guide to the Mayan Riviera

WHERE?

WHERE?

This riviera is in the Mayan heartland of Mexico, on the Caribbean coast of the Yucatan Peninsula . It comprises the 170km stretch of land that runs from Cancun in the north down to Punta Allen, near the border with Belize. Labelling this strip of shore a "riviera" may be canny marketing but it's not completely without justification. Like its European counterparts, the Mayan Riviera boasts seaside boulevards, sandy beaches, sophisticated hotels and plenty of sunshine. It's just that, here, things are a bit more exotic. And, in holidaying terms, a bit more modern.

Forty years ago, the chances of getting a bed for the night in this part of Mexico would have been zero, unless you'd packed a hammock. Apart from Mayan ruins and a few fishermen, there was only sea and jungle here, with white sand in between. But, as those attending, or protesting at, this week's global trade summit in Cancun will be aware, in the 1970s that all changed. The world's first purpose-built resort was built at Kan Kun - Mayan for "viper's nest". In an early nod towards potential riviera status, the developers altered the name to Cancun.

Not so gradually since then the development has spread south through Playa del Carmen and the island of Cozumel all the way down to the one-time backpacker den of Tulum - which has now reached the point where finding a place to hang your hammock among the luxury hotels is no easy feat.

Like many places that are dependent on visitors, it hasn't all been plain sailing for the tourist industry. Some argue that expansion has taken place at the expense of the local people, and of the region's wildlife. Though this is perhaps true of the early construction, especially in Cancun, the good news is that new developments are much more sensitively designed, with buildings that intrude much less into the landscape and an attempt to focus on the area's historical and natural attractions rather than simply the abundance of sun, sand and tequila. The trick is knowing where to go.

WHERE SHOULD I START?

With the Mayans. Latin chic and white sand beaches aside, the thing that really sets this area apart is its history. You won't find crumbling old colonial towns or the remains of grand old haciendas in this part of the Yucatan but you will find plenty of more ancient attractions. The Mayans reached their peak between around AD600-900. Towards the end of this period the Yucatan Peninsula was the centre of the Mayan civilisation, a fact that makes their modern-day descendants hugely proud. It was during this period that vast cities such as Chichen Itza and Uxmal were constructed.

The culture collapsed in the 9th and 10th centuries, and the cities were abandoned. Theories explaining the decline range from invasion by the Toltecs to the cities simply getting too big to sustain their own societies. Yet much of the architecture remains on what has become the Mayan Riviera.

Even in hyper-developed Cancun, you can find evidence of Mayan civilisation at a small temple in the grounds of the Sheraton Hotel. The two main sites, however, are further down the coast at Tulum and Coba. Tulum, 130km south of Cancun and 3km north of the centre of the modern town that shares its name, was once home to a large Mayan city. It was built between AD400 and 900, and apparently so impressed the Spanish conquistadors that they compared it to Seville.

There isn't an awful lot to see now, but the situation of the ruins, on a clifftop overlooking clear Caribbean water, makes it very popular. Go early or late to avoid the crowds (and the worst of the heat). The site opens from 7am-7pm daily, admission 40 pesos (£2.30).

Coba, around 50km north-west, is more impressive. Besides huge pyramids and soaring stelae (stone tablets), you can wander across ancient playing fields and along miles of jungle pathways; take insect repellent and water to enjoy these to the full. Coba bears a much stronger resemblance to the magnificent ruins of Tikal, in neighbouring Guatemala, than to other sites in the Yucatan.

Its most interesting feature is the network of paved stone avenues that cross it, which archaeologists think had religious significance rather than practical purpose. The other thing to look out for is the site's restored ball court. Not dissimilar to a basketball court, but with a large stone hoop on the wall half way up the court, it was apparently used for playing a gruesome, ritualistic game, common to pre-Columbian cultures in the area. Depending on which version of the rules you believe, either the losers or the winners were ceremoniously killed after the match. The site is open from 7am-6pm daily and entrance costs 40 pesos (£2.30).

WHERE CAN I CATCH A MEXICAN WAVE?

This is all beachside terrain. In Mexico, all beaches are meant to be accessible to the public. In reality, many have big "private" signs pinned up. But whether you want to splash around in the waves or just lie on the sand, you should still be able to find a suitable spot. With a barrier reef running almost all the way down the riviera, it's excellent diving and snorkelling territory too.

Many people head straight to the islands. Some aim for the south-western shore of Isla Mujeres, just north of Cancun. The name translates as the Island of Women, and it is so named because of the small ancient statues at the southern end of the island. You can get there by regular ferry services from various docks in and around Cancun: Punta Sam, Puerto Juarez, Playa Linda, Playa Tortugas and by water-taxi from Club Nautico. These cost around $2 (£1.50) for the standard 45-minute service or $4 (£2.50) for the slightly quicker express.

Most island-hoppers, though, make for Cozumel. You can do this via one of the almost hourly ferries that ply the 45-minute journey from the nearby Playa del Carmen for around $16 (£10) return. You can also fly from Cancun for around $160 (£106) return with Mexicana (00 52 555 448 1050, www.mexicana.com).

The reefs off the coast of this island offer some of the best diving in the world. If you're just looking for a good beach, head to the less developed east coast.

Back on the mainland, Akumal, Playa del Secreto, Playa Paraiso, Paamul and Xpu Ha are the beaches most people head to. For something more secluded, rent a car and turn off the main north-south road, highway 307, until you find a beach you like.

If you prefer not to drive, buses and minibuses run along this stretch of road fairly regularly. At a few pesos a trip, they're a lot cheaper than using a taxi, which costs from around 600 pesos (£35) from Cancun to Tulum.

Wherever you end up, bear in mind that, although the water may be lovely, many Mexican beaches have a dangerous undertow, so check it's safe before you go on in.

OR JUST SIT BY THE POOL?

The other big aquatic attraction on the Mayan Riviera is the cenote. The terrain is pocked with these extraordinary limestone sinkholes, in which people swim, snorkel or even dive. You won't go far on the Mayan Riviera without coming across one.

The most organised cenote experience is at Xcaret, a pretty if commercial "ecopark" just outside Playa del Carmen. Here you can swim in a subterranean river or dive with dolphins. Above water, you can visit Mayan ruins, a botanical garden and a breeding centre for birds.

Entrance costs US$49 (£33) for adults and US$25 (£17) for children; open from 8.30am-10pm daily (00 52 998 881 2400, www.xcaret.net).

Xel Ha, just north of Tulum, offers a similar experience. At this park (00 52 984 875 6000, www.xelha.com.mx) you can snorkel, dive, Snuba (a cross between snorkelling and scuba, where swimmers are attached to an airline but don't have to carry scuba gear) or go sea-trekking (walking underwater, with the help of an oxygen-filled helmet) and swim through caves and mangroves.

The less daring may prefer just to float downstream in a big rubber ring. It opens 9am-6pm daily. The basic admission price is 270 pesos (£15) for adults and 140 pesos (£8) for children; other charges apply for specific activities.

Alternatively, book a tour with the Hidden Worlds adventure company (00 52 984 877 8535, www.hiddenworlds.com): be driven through jungle to a cenote and then taken on a guided diving or snorkelling trip though spectacular caverns. The price is $50 (£33) per adult.

HOW ABOUT A WALK

ON THE WILD SIDE?

Head south to Sian Ka'an biosphere, a World Heritage site on a small peninsula almost at the end of the riviera. It is home to jaguars, pumas, ocelots, monkeys, flamingoes and, in the surrounding water, dolphins, giant sea turtles, rays, crocodiles and starfish.

A daily minibus from Tulum to Punta Allen will take you there. But it is easier to book an organised day trip.

Either take a local guide from Tulum or tiny Punta Allen (guest houses should be able to organise this for you, for around US$30 per person), or book through one of the tour companies in Cancun or Playa del Carmen. Eco Colors (00 52 998 884 3667, www.ecotravelmexico.com), for example, offers one-day trips to the reserve from either city, from US$99 (£63) per person including transport, snorkels and guides.

I'M HUNGRY

Food along the riviera is above-average for Mexico, which may have something to do with the number of expatriate Italian chefs in the area. The region has always had a distinctive cuisine. Specialities include poc-chuc (pork strips marinated in sour orange juice and grilled), salbutes (fried tortilla stuffed with shredded turkey, onion and avocado) and sopa de lima (chicken broth with shredded tortilla and lime juice). If you just want a quick bite look out for stalls selling homemade tacos or bags of sugar-and-cinnamon-coated churros.

For something more sedate, there are plenty of restaurants offering romantic jungly, courtyard or beachside settings and good Mexican, Mediterranean and, of course, seafood.

Book ahead for the Que Fresco restaurant at Hotel Zamas in Tulum (see below). You sit at rainbow-coloured tables overlooking a small beach, listening to a mellow soundtrack drifting out from the stereo and choosing from a menu that's so full of good, fresh fish and vegetable dishes, you'll want to eat here every night of your trip.

HOW DO I GET DOWN MEXICO WAY?

Travelling independently got tougher when British Airways abandoned its non-stop flights from Gatwick to Cancun. The usual alternative is on a US airline such as Continental via New York (Newark) or Houston, or American Airlines via Miami or Chicago. Note that you need to clear American immigration when transiting the US.

Through specialist agents such as South American Experience (020-7976 5511, www.southamerican

experience. co.uk) or Journey Latin America (020-8747 8315, www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk) you can fly from London, Birmingham or Manchester via the US to Cancun for around £550 return; some flights serve Cozumel, which will save a lot of time and trouble if this is your final destination.

It may work out cheaper to book a package, though, even if you don't use the accommodation every night: with First Choice (0870 850 3999, www.firstchoice.co.uk), for example, one-week holidays start at around £650, including flights to Cancun from Gatwick or Manchester.

For more sophisticated packages, companies which either run, or can arrange, trips that take in the Mayan Riviera include Journey Latin America and South American Experience (details above), Wildlife Worldwide (020 8667 9158, www.wildlifeworldwide.com), Steppes Latin America (01285 885333, www.steppeslatinamerica.co.uk) and Dive Worldwide (01794 389372, www.diveworldwide.com).

WHERE SHOULD I HANG MY HAMMOCK?

If you've booked a package, the chances are you'll be staying in Cancun or Playa del Carmen, which makes sense since they're easy to get to and offer the biggest choice of accommodation, services and access to attractions.

Cancun is the place to be if you like hotel after luxury hotel interspersed by nightclubs, restaurants and bars. The Strip - the main road that runs the length of the sandbar on which Cancun is planted - can make you think you're in Florida rather than the Yucatan. It is full of mammoth American hotels and restaurants.

In contrast, Playa del Carmen is the younger, cheaper, sister to Cancun. It is closer to most of the riviera's sites, and is quite a lot more attractive. It may no longer be a small fishing village and backpacker haven, but it is now pulling in more discerning travellers, with several designer hotels jostling for space along the beachfront.

The town is not particularly pretty but with a good choice of restaurants, bars and shops, it's got plenty to keep you entertained.

If you're here to indulge, you'll be spoilt for choice. The best of a glam lot are Deseo and Ikal del Mar. Deseo is at the junction of 5a Avenida and Calle 12 (00 52 984 879 3620, www.hoteldeseo.com). It boasts an entrance modelled on a Mayan temple, floor-to-ceiling glass panels, a multi-decked courtyard and sleek, minimalist bedrooms from US$128 (£86) per night.

Ikal del Mar (00 52 984 877 3000, www.ikaldelmar.com) is just out of town on the Xcalacoco road. It offers not-so-traditional Mayan villas set in thick jungle by the sea. There's also a beach, an infinity pool and a traditional temazcal spa. Villas cost from US$450 (£300) per night.

A slightly cheaper, and quirkier, option is Kailuum II (00 52 984 879 3456, www.mexicoholiday.com). This is an eco resort just north of the town centre, comprising posh tents on the beach. Tents cost from US$70 (£47) per night, including meals; they have beds and maid service but aren't en suite.

Tulum also makes a good base in the area and, although it's gradually getting the designer touch too, it's still much smaller and more laid-back than other towns on the riviera. It's also the most backpacker friendly, with some cabana owners still willing to rent out hammock hook-ups by the beach for around £3 a night.

If you want a bed, the best place by far is Hotel Zamas (001 415 387 9806, www.zamas.com), owned by two San Franciscans with an eye for quirky Mexican styling. Cabanas here start from US$50 (£34) per night.

Finally, if you really want to be away from it all, consider Paraiso de la Bonita (00 52 998 872 8300, www.paraisodelabonitaresort.com) on Petenpich Bay. This is probably the riviera's most luxurious hotel, with a thalassotherapy spa on site. The suites are a bit over the top for some tastes but you get what you pay for, which is quite a lot at a minimum US$495 (£370) a night.

WHERE CAN I GET MORE INFORMATION?

Contact the Mexican Tourism Board at 41 Trinity Square, London, EC3N 4DJ (020-7488 9392, www.visitmexico.com) or log on to www.rivieramaya.com.

Good guide books on the area include Lonely Planet's Belize, Guatemala and Yucatan (£13.99); Cadogan's Yucatan and Mayan Mexico (£14.99); and the Rough Guide to The Maya World (£12.99).

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